When Princess Anne is a starting point for dreaming up a new menswear collection, you know you’re in for a sartorial treat. While formal office wear is back in a big way (see Prada and Emporio Armani) and nary a sneaker in sight (Gucci creepers, anyone?), there is a romantic whiff in the air when it comes to menswear in Milan. And after a couple of years of stripped-back schedules, as models spilt out onto the runway in looks that got our fashion tastebuds tingling once more, it became clear that there is something of a menswear renaissance underway. From delicious violets and pistachio greens to trailing scarves, chiffon and ballet flats, Milan’s Autumn/Winter 2024 offerings could give you whiplash.


Dsquared2
Clutch bags, plunging necklines, sequins for the boys - this was all about a split personality (as modelled by twins) – slouchy, denim with lumberjack shirts, then scrubbing up nicely with tuxedo lines.


Gucci
Sabato De Sarno’s first foray into menswear, the clothes are clean while the bags are oversized. XXL Jackie Bags, embroidered fringe on coats, and studded creepers, this collection was a development on what we saw at last September’s women’s show and marks a more minimalist paring back, with richness in colour and sharpness of cut giving us all the detail we need.


Prada
Grandma cardigan twinsets, knit long johns or bathing caps in sharp fuchsia and seaweed green – all juxtaposed next to office tailoring of the 1980s kind. Skinny ties, collared shirts and perfectly tailored trousers. Shoes are lattice-leather sandals or second-skin tie-ups, and bum bags are back!


JW Anderson
15 denier tights, floral brooches and kitten jumpers – enough said!


Fendi
Talking inspo from Princess Anne’s timeless wardrobe, Fendi goes all Balmoral on us with kilt skorts, wind-resistant waterproof jackets you’ll have to wax, and light-knit twinsets with diamond necklaces. Time to get regal.


Emporio Armani
Sailor chic, that perennial inspiration, melted into pinstripe tailoring sets for both men and women. A rare sighting of 3D modelled sneakers (albeit in a skiwear section) was a fun punctuation in an otherwise Armani-signature-led collection of delicious suiting.


MSGM
We were taken into the underground, and MSGM put its men in ballet shoes, socks and little underwear (albeit sequinned!), alongside puffer jackets shaped like snowballs.


Neil Barrett
Techno-tweeds is such a Neil Barrett-ism. Best known for taking classic shapes and redoing them in innovative fabrics, his menswear is also great for women who want sharp looks. A two-for brand, in our eyes!