For smaller, independent brands, the past few years have been rocky to say the least, spurring many to take a step back from the relentless scheduling of fashion weeks across the capitals. This season, British menswear designer Bianca Saunders, who went from showing during men’s fashion week in London to Paris in January 2022, decided to do things at her own pace, launching her first unisex collection off-schedule during the Paris shows at an intimate preview.

Awarded the New Establishment Menswear Award at the Fashion Awards at the end of last year, Bianca brings a nuanced and skilled approach to menswear and womenswear, blending tailored silhouettes with clothes you can truly move in.

Featuring exaggerated shoulders, ear-grazing collars, balloon-leg trousers, spliced tailoring and denim – pleated and cinched to perfection to follow the lines of the body in motion, the collection was clean and considered but with unexpected twists and turns in true Bianca spirit.

We asked the designer 10 Questions to find out more…

Describe your AW24 collection in 3 words
Elegant, refined, quirky

Name one person, living or dead, that you would want to wear the collection
Marvin Gaye... someone alive would be Paul Mescal. 

What's your favourite piece and why?
The Nesting Jacket – it exudes sophistication, transforming seamlessly from a day-to-night look with the collar down or up.

Which piece took the longest to perfect?
The Turini coat. It took a while to adapt the desired sleeve shape.

Why did you choose to make a genderless collection?
I wear my clothes a lot, and I've noticed a growing number of women doing the same. I wanted to showcase their versatility for everyone.

What did winning the New Establishment Menswear Award at the 2023 Fashion Awards mean for the brand?
Winning the award meant a lot. Being recognised in menswear is crucial, especially as a woman. It's inspiring and helps my team understand the brand's direction.

What are your Fashion week essentials?
A practical pair of shoes for any location switch.

As a London-based brand, what are your highlights from 40 years of London Fashion Week?
My Autumn/Winter 2020 presentation.

What is it about the city that continues to energize your creativity?
The city's culture and diversity continually inspire my creativity.

What drives you to keep making clothes?
I keep making clothes because I'm a perfectionist and a highly creative individual. I believe I haven't expressed all I need to through my creations yet.

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