It seems in the world of high fashion, no everyday staple is too boring to be rendered in luxurious fabrics or printed with a designer logo. We've seen boxer shorts, baseball caps and vest tops get the high-fashion treatment in recent seasons, but the biggest trend to surface during the spring/summer 2024 shows was the haute hoodie.
Once relegated to gym sessions and lazy Sundays, this versatile garment has undergone a glimmering transformation, making a guest appearance on runways across the fashion capitals.
Kicking it off in London, Jonathan Anderson completely revived the cosy staple sending sculptural plasticine-like iterations down the runway that got everyone talking – upon closer inspection, we realised that they were actually crafted from foam and painted for an organic finish. Fear not, perhaps more practical (and accessible) sheer and waxed versions also featured in the show.
Ukrainian-born designer Masha Popova’s provocative monster-truck-inspired collection included signature acid-wash hoodies in abundance, some of which evolved into jersey tube dresses fitted with bell-bottom cuffs – a likely uniform, when paired with ragged denim accessories, for the Gen-Z audience that flock to the designer’s Y2K offering.
Meanwhile, at the other end of the sartorial spectrum, but not without a cult following of her own, Susan Fang’s whimsical collection also featured the loungewear staple. Fairy-like models flounced down the runway, wearing drop-waist, puff-ball skirts, and embellished accessories while sporting oversized hoodies. The Susan Fang twist? Both examples in the show were made from delicate wool crochet in a sweet floral design. Cormio also took the cute route, with blooming embroideries, ruched shoulders and contrasting neck-ties.
Balenciaga pretty much wrote the high fashion rule book in layering the humble hoodie under (or over) pretty much anything, and this season was no expectation – with hoodies under bombers, leathers and blazers. Gucci’s new vision even paired theirs with lacquered Cherry Red and shimmering silver heels, while Andreas Kronthaler exaggerated the shoulders and left the seams open and raw on a grey hooded two-piece for his Vivienne Westwood show in Paris.
As is often the case with trends that erupt across the collections of notable designers as well as on our feeds, Miuccia Prada is partly to blame. Ever since Miu Miu featured simple grey hoodies in its collection for autumn/winter 2023 everyone else has finally cottoned on to the fact that comfort is most definitely key. This winter, don't be surprised if your go-to hoodie leaves the house as much as you do.
All Good in the Hood