On the breezy Southbank, peering out over the Thames from London’s OXO tower, Eudon Choi hosted his AW23 show. The Korean-born designer began his career as a menswear designer in Seoul, where he gained vital knowledge about the tailoring techniques that now inform his contemporary womenswear brand.

Eudon has become a firm fixture on the London Fashion Week schedule since launching his eponymous label in 2009, with a roster of collections that merge sharp masculine tailoring with a feminine sensibility in his extra details and colour-palette approach. A continuation of the designer's quest to deliver modern, practical clothing, rooted in historical and artistic references, this season Eudon looked both backwards with an eye to the future.

“Craftmanship and quality is always my main focus,” says Eudon. “We wanted to create a collection that celebrated the classics.”

The collection featured, woollen overcoats borrowed from 16th and 17th-century doublet jackets, with elaborate front fastenings and padded sleeves that the designer modernised with cuts and slits to create new shapes. His collaboration with bag designer Louis Quatorze was given a Tudor makeover, with stud embellishment, quilting and more slit details in pine, tan, brown and buttery yellow.

The warm colour palette, largely dark with indigo blue, walnut brown and caramel, was an ode to German painter Lucas Cranach’s portraiture of the Renaissance era when offset with bursts of rose pink and scarlet. Heritage luxe fabrics such as brushed wool, Nappa leather, cashmere, tweed and Venetian wool suiting were given an update when paired with modern sporty elements such as cord, denim, poppers and eyelets. The collection was preppy and straight to the point, but a great example of why less is more when it comes to brilliant tailoring.