As we settle into 2023, a new season dawns on Britain's capital. After a succession of lockdowns, paired back schedules and the Queen’s untimely passing before the shows last season, London’s vibrant fashion scene is chomping at the bit for a fashion week that feels complete.

So roll on the new Autumn/Winter 2023 collections, and an LFW that will showcase some hotly anticipated debuts, from Daniel Lee’s new vision for Burberry, Tove’s on-schedule offering (at last!) to the star-studded Moncler Genius London Fashion Week presentation. As buyers, journalists and designers warm up for a lap around the fashion circuit, Because has a lowdown on what to look out for at AW23.

A Brand-new Burberry
Of course, Burberry is the show that everyone is talking about. Since returning to the London Fashion Week schedule last season (albeit a bit delayed), the brand had a quick change of hands. This season’s show marks British designer Daniel Lee’s debut as chief creative officer at the luxury brand. Daniel caused a commercially successful storm as former creative director of Bottega Veneta before his unexpected departure back in 2021. From the Cassette Bag to the Lido Sandal, Lee made a name for himself by catapulting Bottega Veneta from quiet luxury to in-your-face, can’t miss it leather accessory dominance.

After wiping Burberry’s social media accounts clean, a brand campaign steeped in heritage was presented in the weeks running up to the inaugural show. Daniel’s new direction, seemingly rooted in “Britishness”, includes a new curled serif typeface and a relaunch of Burberry’s heritage Equestrian logo (debunked by former design head Ricardo Tisci), featuring a horse-riding knight galloping into the distance, yielding a sword and banner reading “prorsum” meaning “forwards.” And further forward Daniel journeys, also launching a new campaign, photographed by his old BV collaborator, Tyrone Lebon, featuring a cast of British talent including musicians John Glacier, Shygirl and Skepta, actor Vanessa Redgrave, models Lennon Gallagher and Liberty Ross, and footballer Raheem Sterling.

This new and refreshing interpretation comes after Tisci’s takeover, which failed to make the most of Burberry's British heritage. For now, it seems, Daniel’s new direction for Burberry is rooted in something that feels familiar yet exciting, but we’ll have to stay tuned until the Monday 20th to see what the designer manages to pull off.

A Treasure Tove of Chic
While Tove cancelled its debut Spring/Summer 2023 show in September, following the death of Queen Elizabeth II, the London-based duo behind the new brand, launched a lustful collection of actually sustainable denim separates (yes, we’ve grilled them); and have continued to capture the attention of the fashion crowd with their clean lines and pared-back feminine aesthetic.

The long-term collaborator team of Holly Wright and Camille Perry, who met when heading up the design and buying departments at Topshop (RIP), launched the brand together in 2019. After being shortlisted for the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund last year, Tove offers a complete collection, that layers and layers each season, of what they call “Feminine Refinement”. Combining their 35 years of experience the pair use expert craftsmanship and luxury sustainable fabrics, creating looks that feel like instant wardrobe staples. The brand's sustainable credentials and wardrobe wearability are destined to bring many new customers and followers this season post-show, and it’ll be interesting to see how their looks move in real life on the runway.

Moncler Genius takes London
Landing in the British capital for the very first time, Moncler Genius, the luxury brand’s co-creation initiative launched in 2018, has announced its show during London Fashion Week. Previous years have seen fashion designers such as Simone Rocha, JW Anderson and Pierpaolo Piccioli interpret the brand’s iconic puffer jacket on Italian soil, but 2023 welcomes collaborators from across industries; tapping into London’s long history of creative cross-pollination.

In what the brand is calling “an epic event live from London,” The Art of Genius presentation will bring together collaborations from the likes of Alicia Keys, Jay Z, Mercedes-Benz, Pharrell Williams and Rick Owens, presenting them under one roof in Kensington Olympia. With Mr. Z rumoured to attend and cult designer, Rick Owens set to present an exclusive Moncler + Rick Owens collection on the night, the event is sure to be a spectacle of fashion, arts and culture.

For those unable to attend, the show will be streamed live on from 8pm.