Copenhagen Fashion Week kickstarted the jam-packed Autumn/Winter 2023 schedule this season, with both big and budding designers presenting playful collections that remix the traditions of style as only the Scandis can. Here at Because, we’ve hand-picked a few of our must-sees.

To the beat of instrumental renditions of grunge classics by the likes of Linkin Park, and Limp Biscuit, (Di)vision stayed true to their DIY aesthetic with their neo-grunge collection. Sibling designers Nanna and Simon Wick went all in to the Y2K moment, with revealing cuts, oversized silhouettes and technical fabrics. Held in a ballroom in the city's Frederiksberg Gardens, where spectators sat around abandoned dining tables, torso-bearing open-panel shirts, oversized tees, and cargo trousers stood out against an opulent backdrop. In a dramatic finale, the model stood to reveal the train of her mini skirt was fashioned from a wine-stained, littered tablecloth. Later, (Di)vision hosted a nostalgic afterparty with stomping sneakers custom-made by Asics and flaming neon hair highlights referencing all those 00s icons. 

Baum und Pferdgarten 
Danish designers Helle Hestehave and Rikke Baumgarten expand their exploration of female expression and playful contradictions, inspired in their AW23 collection by the fictional style icon and star of Wes Anderson’s 'The Royal Tenenbaums', Margot Tenenbaum. The 2002 film, featuring Gwenyth Paltrow, is a perennial favourite on moodboards and gets reinterpreted time and again because of a delicate balance between the classic and the sporty. Savvily cut suits with ornate patterns and snakeskin. The show is a bold accolade to the unexpected, with each look debuting a new silhouette, fabric and pattern, tying itself to the dysfunctional, eccentric Tenenbaum family in a celebration of difference.

Holzweiler’s dreamlike collection was an amalgamation of pastel colours and careful layering. The Norwegian fashion brand, who are set to open a London store following a significant private equity investment, created cleverly crafted ensembles of knitwear and leather, inspired by their fascination with art, architecture and nature. A combination best seen in a look integrating floating sheer flares and a delicately tailored shirt with the roughness of an oxblood leather jacket. The scarf accessories worked in harmony with the outerwear pieces, flowing from the original forms to extend into a grander silhouette. The cloud-like scene failed to overcast the coiled and draped garments that transported the audience to places of comfort. With its new investors, Holzweiler is set to go sky-high, in an expansion of both digital and global reach. 

Amid the mise-en-scene of clement skies, 30 minutes south of Copenhagen to ARKEN, Museum of Modern Art, GANNI’s AW23 collection was an ode to the free-spirited nature of the butterfly, the brand’s new logo. Figure-hugging snakeskin contrasted with loud metallics, velvet ruching and tailored denim, in a kaleidoscope of textures and colours. Amongst the most sartorial pieces was an 80s-inspired smoke grey three-piece suit with an asymmetric neckline, sheer pleats and a lining emulating the shape on the accompanying handbag. A relaxed spin on business wear for the new, powerful Ganni girl. One of our favourite accessories? The new GANNI Bou Bag; made of Ohoskin, a luxury leather alternative, and a versatile addition to your everyday looks! Creative director Ditte Reffstrup put on a display of sequins and structure; the new boho-chic for gen z. 

Henrik Vibskov 
Henrik Vibskov’s foodie fascination continued in a new chapter in his AW23 runway show. Sausages, apple pie, and gelatin are among the foodstuffs that have appeared in the Danish designer's collections and films over the years. This season, tomato motifs burst onto the runway with a repeat vintage graphic of the vegetable and details resembling leaves. An organic twist on understated tailoring of bell-sleeved plaid suit blazers and gingham coats with patterned silk scarves accompanied by headbands evoking plump vines of cherry tomatoes were a sensory feast for the eyes. Pioneering fabric manipulation and eco-inspired symbolism was a playful way to enjoy the simpler things in life.