This menswear season has been one of firsts, surprises and come backs; with London having its inaugural mens' fashion week, Jil Sander back at the helm and Gaultier skipping menswear and showing it all at Couture. Those being just some of the focal points, the rest was all about the clothes. With a genius display from Umit Benan, tap dancing at Moncler and androgynous sportswear at Prada. So much to mention, so we've summed it up wiht our take on what to look out for for SS13.

 

On the horizon - Metallics

Having made a slight appearance at Bottega and Neil Barrett last season. Metallics are back with a vengence and can be seen in Lanvin, Versace, Margiela, Neil barrett, Burberry & Frankie Morello (to name a few). Though not a trend to be over amorous with.

 

Material of the season - Denim

Single, double, triple however you want to wear it there are variety of washes and cuts. Though always prominent from the denim powerhouses (Diesel, Dqsuared, G-Star etc.) this season sees Vuitton and Asshe & Howell amongst others giving thier take on denim.

 

The trend of the season - Summer Sportswear

A fundamental and inescapable trend every spring/summer, however this coming season a sport identity is shown throughout ranging from baseball shirts, neoprene suits, sports vests, skateboards and utilitarian trainers. Maybe it's something to do with a rather large sporting event happening shortly...

 

Must have - The bomber jacket

Not be confused with the letterman jackets from seasons past, the bomber is all Top Gun-tastic. At least one was present in the bulk of shows in all the capitals. A wardrobe staple that will remain classic and versatile.

 

Malcolm Mafara

After months of preparations and excitement, fashion luminaries from around the globe flocked to the capital for the showcase that was London Collections: Men - a host of occasions ranging from fashion shows, presentations, dinners and parties. This inaugural event is sure to be remembered by most, especially with the visual feast that was served from the best in British menswear. Here are some, some being the operative word, of the Fashion Week(end) highlights.

 

Day 1:

 

Lou Dalton
The opening show of LC:M and most certainly one of the most memorable. Inspired by late '70s American cinema and the narrative of the underdog. The collection featured light summer trenches, over-sized baseball shirts, leather paneled shirts and tailored blazers.

 

Martine Rose
Inspired by the sculpture Rape of Proserpina by Benini, the key materials in this collection were denim and neoprene. Blended together to make a collection that epitomized the brand's street-wear essence.

Topman Design
If Topman Design is anything to go by, summer 2013 is set to see the return of the skater/surfer. The collection featured bright illustrative colours with black prints, neon suits, oversized backpacks, skateboards, and neoprene wetsuit shorts. So rich in nostalgia, it would have came as no surprise if Zack Morris himself walked the show.

 

DAY 2:

 

MAN
The must see show has got to be MAN. It exemplifies some of the sheer raw talent that British menswear has to offer. This season saw Agi & Sam present vibrant micro-print suits and floral fusion print attire, all modeled by mustached men. Astrid Anderson produced a luxe sportswear infusion, and Shaun Samson's key staples were cat face print shirts and stripes throughout.

 

Rake
From today onwards this show must be referred to as the everyman collection in that there was something for every gent no matter what taste or caste. From the colourful loafers and loose linen shirts to the tailored blazers.

 

Jonathan Saunders
If good things come to those who wait then Jonathan Saunders has that mantra down to a T. The presentation was the home of bright micro print and stripes, with the odd corrugated summer jumper thrown in for good measure. It was a stand out collection.

 

 

 

DAY 3:

 

Omar Kashoura:

Well dressed bearded beatniks are the key words to describe Kashoura's collection. Light summer luxe in the form of graphic shirts, unstructured blazers and embossed knits.

 

 

Margaret Howell:
Leave it to Margaret Howell to make an effortlessly cool yet traditional collection that features military inspired shirts, double denim, lightweight jackets and well crafted backpacks.

 

Nicole Farhi:
The crescendo, of what will be the first of many LC:M's, was Nicole Farhi who delivered a youthful yet dapper collection that echoed summers gone by. With some prominent pieces such as jersey crew necks, short sleeved romper jumpsuits and pyjama shirts

 

Malcolm Mafara

 

 

LC:M officially launches tomorrow, however we still have two more designers up our sleeve. With only two days left until his Salon show, Fashion Forward winner Matthew Miller lets us know what's to come.

 

How do you feel about London having its own menswear Fashion Week(end)?
It's great that the London schedule is syncing up with the traditional menswear calendar. It allows for more press and buyers to attend and really highlights the presence of the British menswear scene. The men's day has been really growing in strength every season and this dedicated event will increase awareness.

 

What was your inspiration for SS13 ?
I started by investigating building sites, in particular health and safety collateral; looking at everyday materials and thinking philosophically what is real luxury? I was also intrigued by old CCTV imagery of brutalist architecture around London.

 

What is the best thing about what you do ?
Experiment and discovery. When designing I always start with a sentence, something to sum up a mood or theme. I then spend the initial phase researching this and relating words in a library and start to create imagery and sketches around this. It then becomes an organic process - I feel lucky to have this time and creativity allowance.

 

The weirdest thing to happen to you so far ?
When people write to you, and say how they love what you do. I've even had people e-mailing asking for an autograph, that's pretty weird.

 

If you could dress anyone, who would it be ?
I've just started to work with DJ/Music Producer TEED and love his energy and distinctive style.

 

What will you do to relax once you've shown ?
This season I'll be going to support Baartmans and Siegel, as they'll be showing on the Sunday morning of L:CM.

 

What have you got planned for the coming year ?
Apart from my collections, following on from my collaboration with contemporary British footwear brand Oliver Sweeney. The collection will be available from August and we're following up with a new collection for SS13, showing during L:CM. I'm looking forward to seeing the product in their stores.

 

Malcolm Mafara