Paul Smith is, to a large extent, the man behind the modern recognition of British menswear and - as we discover elsewhere in this issue - still someone who makes time to watch out for the wellbeing of the scene and its new talents. This season, his collection is one of many menswear offerings based around the colour blue. That in itself hardly constitutes a trend, of course - blue is arguably the most dependable and widely deployed colour in men's clothes per se - but the spring/summer collections were all about taking the colour out of the realms of practicality and back into a painterly phase. From navy to azure, lapis to indigo, the whole tonal spectrum of blue was presented on the Milan and Paris menswear catwalks and a siren call for designers at Versace, Kenzo, Margiela, Trussardi and Louis Vuitton. Paul Smith's collection was a contemporary salute to his London mod roots; loud, bright and true. With this shirt, Smith's icy and oil hues conjure a variety of shades that manage to be both sun-faded and saturated. Cut high like a cardigan or Harrington jacket, it's also bang on a second trend: our current fixation for smart shirts and jackets evolving into light summer garments that take tailoring somewhere fresh.