Trainers - Yves Saint Laurent

Remember when people used to lament the ascent of the trainer in the modern world? How it was a symbol of all that had become juvenile and scruffy about the British male's style? We don't either. Perhaps the past few seasons of heavy boots and brogues have battered our senses, because it really wasn't long ago at all that sneakers seemed unassailable as our default daywear.

That's what made natty neo-tailors like Tom Ford, Adrien Sauvage and Patrick Grant so radical when they first started spreading their 21st century style gospel. They talked up and reworked all the elegant gent touches and nuances we'd all but forgotten.

The art of fashion is, of course, in the clever ways that it finds ways to make desirable things we think we've outgrown. A few seasons back, the pocket square re-emerged with a flash of defiant colour to prove smart didn't mean square and now a host of bright, but not brash, trainers are bouncing into buyers' and fashion plates' estimation. And that's despite autumn/winter normally focusing on heavier, more weatherproof wares.

Between Prada's golf-inspired collection and Nike and New Balance's latest retro-renaissances, trainers are getting back on track. This season, Lacoste, K-Swiss, Supra and Puma by Hussein Chalayan have played blinders with refreshingly straightforward styles. Established directional designers including Givenchy, Yohji Yamamoto, Rick Owens, Marc Jacobs, Dior Homme, Gucci, Versace and Lanvin focused on that sportswear staple, the high-top.

Yves Saint Laurent's clever cranberry red trainers are made from patent leather with a nubuck trim, the upper given an especially pleasing aspect by the white leather soles below. No, we do not recommend going mountaineering in them. But in a British winter and an economic ice age, menswear seems to have wisely divined that bright tones beat dour pragmatism. When nothing else is going to help much, it's surely right that our wardrobes colour us glad.

Trousers - Jil Sander

With its seasonal tradition of sticking to navy, grey, black, and brawny neutrals when the skies close in, men's fashion usually saves colour for the details at this time of year: a red sock, a lively tie or suit lining, a shock of neon on a sober sole. However, this winter, designers have abandoned the gloom more wholeheartedly and picked up palettes reminiscent of modernist painters. Bursts of bright colour set an optimistic tone that isn't just a show-pony choice for dandies or dapper Italian gents on style blogs, but one we can all accommodate and adjust to.

While British men, at least those of a certain age, don't always embrace the brighter shades beyond their holiday beachwear, designers are keen to push consumers out of their colour comfort zones. Orange was the theme at Ann Demeulemeester, Burberry, Mugler, Jil Sander and Louis Vuitton. It was bright yellow at Balenciaga, Burberry, Paul Smith, Kenzo and Yves Saint Laurent, and purple also reigned at Raf Simons, Jil Sander, Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood and Acne. Code red ruled at Dior Homme, Dolce & Gabbana, Calvin Klein and Moschino. The message could hardly have been clearer.

These Jil Sander trousers, in particular, have a trace of autumnal ochre in their brilliant yellow that somehow works and wows despite its boldness (much like the similarly mustard-cutting "sulphur" jumper from Toast's new men's collection). Indeed, there's a bit of a he who-dares-wins, peacocky subtext involved in creating, or even just wearing, colours that take it to the edge without falling off. Chances are that your trusty navy crew-neck will see more service than your bold new pair of primary-coloured pantaloons this winter, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't keep flying the flag.

Jacket - G-Star

The seriously-tailored, tough-to-pull-off double-breasted jacket scared off many imperfect Adonises a couple of seasons back. This winter's evergreen wardrobe companion comes in the form of a sleek, more easily-handled single-breasted jacket, with a nice grey being the most adaptable smart-casual colour choice. Moving away from the body-skimming, Mad Men-influenced silhouette, these loose cut jackets are a smart and eminently wearable solution for the new season. (Perhaps men have been learning from the way women have been making longer, suit-style tailored jackets work so well with trousers and jeans in recent times).

This relaxed approach to tailoring is also paying dividends in outerwear like duffle and trench coats. The other key theme in the autumn/winter collections' best outwear was the deep shoulder seam - which sits off of the shoulder to give the appearance of a broader shape. Burberry, Raf Simons, Giorgio Armani, Yohji Yamamoto, Costume National and G-Star all opted for this single-button aesthetic.

The more spacious of these tailored jackets aren't easy for everyone, as you can run the risk of looking like The Biggest Loser in his pre-diet clothes. (Talking losers, your cardigans might feel a bit forgotten this winter). Different jackets will add different degrees of volume to the torso, but in the case of the numerous single-breasted versions out there, the real key to keeping bang on trend is how you wear your chosen jacket. Wearing sweaters under it is one way and for the authentic art college slant, pop your collar and exemplify nonchalant, too-cool-for-school style.