Sunglasses - Jil Sander

Like sandals, sunnies are another summer style minefield. Aviators, as revived a year ago, don't fit all faces, and space-age, wrap-around innovations are best reserved for the beach or the extreme sports holiday. Consequently, curvy retro circular shapes are still an evolving and appealing alternative. At Liberty, Moscot Originals from New York offer vintage-inspired frames from their archive, which stretches from the '30s to the '70s.

While classic frames such as tortoise- shell and black usually work best, this season designers are also offering colour. Marni designer Consuelo Castiglioni has created simple graphic shapes that reflect the pared-down aesthetic of her men's collection. Calvin Klein has tooled some very nice, clean, gently curvy frames and, at Jil Sander, neo-classical subtlety in shade design has been a triumph too - see above.

Raf Simons' latest collaboration with Linda Farrow offers a geometric model defined by its angles and based around a synthetic, yet wood-like, material. Swedish brand Acne has worked with French sunglasses manufacturer Thierry Lasry to create the 'Helvin', which is constructed from thin Plexiglass and has been given a mirrored finish. Alternatively, Maison Martin Margiela have semi-deconstructed takes on famous styles, while Prada Private is a service, offered in the label's boutiques since the end of last year, which enables you to select the colour of the frames and a selection of letters and numbers for making your own stylish statement.

Sandals - HERMÈS

The manliest men may have been wearing sandals since the beginning of time - Roman gladiators, Greek Gods, African Kings and even Jesus wore leather sandals - but none of these historic figures seem to loom as large in most male minds as the fear of being derided for looking drippy. None of them had to get on the bus in rush hour bare- toed back then either.

So the issue of gentlemen wearing sandals is arguably a matter of the traditional versus the nontraditional. The urban chap who chooses the traditional route does not expose his toes; canvas lace-ups, deck shoes, loafers, and oxfords, all worn sockless, are ideal for keeping feet cool when it's warm out. But for the nonconformist there are an excess of options. Lanvin offered a technical twist on the leather sandal by mixing sportiness with luxury to create trainer-sandal hybrids constructed from a mix of neoprene and python skin. Emporio Armani unveiled similar sporty versions with a grey suede trim, adjustable Velcro straps and embossed logo on the back strap and sole.

Maison Martin Margiela presented hi- tops and high fashion sandals that demanded attention, as did the Gladiator-inspired takes witnessed at Burberry and Bottega Veneta. YSL (and others) endorsed a much-mocked combination by sending out their models in moulded sandals with socks. Less dramatic, but still eye-catchingly elegant, leather sandals were seen at Kenzo, Louis Vuitton and at Hermès, where this minimal pair won out in some style, channeling elements of the canvas shoe too. Finally, for a sensible, no toes showing solution that fuses the trad and tech elements seen elsewhere, Prada's espadrilles are formal brogues with two soles, part espadrille, one part sports trainer.

Jewellery - Alice Waese


Whatever the skies say, there's a silver lining to this season. By accident more than thanks to any grand collective strategy, the beginnings of a new jewellery design sensibility are emerging: one focused on silver and equally lived-in accompaniments like leather. With its tendency towards irregularity and its evocation of antique mementoes and forget- me-nots, it all loosely evokes an unassuming, folky, anti-bling aesthetic.

London-based Canadian jeweller Alice Waese is a prime, self-contained specimen of the type. Waese puts her fine art background to inquisitive ends, basing her designs on organic shapes and unlikely objects like walnuts and discarded silk moth cocoons.

The cocoons are a motif also extended into impressive, epic new scarves as well as rings in her second collection (her first in her own name; her last, which included some elegant leather bags, was released under the short-lived and tongue-tripping name Curiouser and Curiouser).

Her jewellery has caught the eye of men's buyers at her UK home of Hostem, but like many other new names in the field, she regards it as unisex. Australian Toby Jones pursues a related look in brass and tarnished silver, riffing on the symbolic value of old keys and locks and layering on the thrift store trinket mystique. German Klaus Lohmeyer's Werkstatt: München range, lately championed in the UK by Barnsley's Pollyana boutique, is characterized by world- worn, sturdy silver. The more classically styled but equally craft-focused Bunney label, founded in London two years ago by Andrew Bunney, grew out of a single silver stud into a complete range, in both silver and gold, and again designed for both men and women. so rather than agonise over whether to take the plunge, you can buy one for the one you love and pluck up the courage to borrow it later.