Jewellery - Alice Waese
Whatever the skies say, there's a silver lining to this season. By accident more than thanks to any grand collective strategy, the beginnings of a new jewellery design sensibility are emerging: one focused on silver and equally lived-in accompaniments like leather. With its tendency towards irregularity and its evocation of antique mementoes and forget- me-nots, it all loosely evokes an unassuming, folky, anti-bling aesthetic.
London-based Canadian jeweller Alice Waese is a prime, self-contained specimen of the type. Waese puts her fine art background to inquisitive ends, basing her designs on organic shapes and unlikely objects like walnuts and discarded silk moth cocoons.
The cocoons are a motif also extended into impressive, epic new scarves as well as rings in her second collection (her first in her own name; her last, which included some elegant leather bags, was released under the short-lived and tongue-tripping name Curiouser and Curiouser).
Her jewellery has caught the eye of men's buyers at her UK home of Hostem, but like many other new names in the field, she regards it as unisex. Australian Toby Jones pursues a related look in brass and tarnished silver, riffing on the symbolic value of old keys and locks and layering on the thrift store trinket mystique. German Klaus Lohmeyer's Werkstatt: München range, lately championed in the UK by Barnsley's Pollyana boutique, is characterized by world- worn, sturdy silver. The more classically styled but equally craft-focused Bunney label, founded in London two years ago by Andrew Bunney, grew out of a single silver stud into a complete range, in both silver and gold, and again designed for both men and women. so rather than agonise over whether to take the plunge, you can buy one for the one you love and pluck up the courage to borrow it later.