19:30 PM – Burberry Closes Day 4 of LFW
Noting abstract artist Henry Moore with his striking curved bronzed sculptures as inspiration, smooth round lines shaped the Burberry catwalk tonight. Sleek silhouettes toyed with lengths and layering, mixing aran knit sweaters with crisp tailoring and flowing lace. Recognising the significance of the label as a heritage brand, Christopher Bailey delved deep into the house's history and reimagined the Burberry cape. Further referencing Victoriana toward the finale he draped chainmail and jewels across utilitarian looks with a feathered shoulder never far away from the minds' eye. And finally, who could forget those tassels?
18:45 PM – Worry, but be Happy: the Joy of Clothes by ASHISH
17:40PM – Joseph's Chic take on Victor/Victoria
Louise Trotter understands the play off between men's tailoring and women's sensuality. They mirror each other but for women the reflection is softer and perfectly proportioned. The silhouette is big and slouchy, the colours sweet and juicy and the craftsmanship - the chunky knitted jumpers in dusky pink, the English stately home tapestry sewn into a tailored suit - just a delight.
16:45 PM – OSMAN's League of Extraordinary Gentlewomen
Jan de Villeneuve, Tiphaine de Lussy, several artists and a band of other models walked for OSMAN this afternoon. His beautiful and wearable collection came in all shapes and sizes, embodying a vision of resistance trenches, berets and sequinned getups that were calling out for a disco near by.
16:00 PM – Christopher Kane's Factory Girls are a Mix of Rough and Smooth
Christopher Kane’s autumn/winter 2017 collection offered his loyal clientele ‘a tougher femininity’ this season. ‘I love the idea of the female factory worker. At the same time we wanted to work with historical fabrics and contrast them with these tough silhouettes.’ There’s always a gritty edge to Kane’s collections, and this time it manifested itself in jagged edges, industrial touches like the use of bright yellow and blue washing up sponges as buffers between the delicate straps of the high heeled sandals and the foot. He was investigating the links between craft and work, technology and history. So he reworked a French New-Classical damask from 1750 as well as a more techno element in the form of cool Velcro fastenings, holographic foiled lace and iridescent knits. We loved the utility functionality of the three tiered pockets on the sleeves of jumpers and coats (handy to put your phone and your lipstick) and the Velcro fastening bags with their elasticated over layer, like an extra wrapping - especially in acid yellow. Luckily for you, these safety buckle devine bags and high top sneakers are already available to buy via this link www.christopherkane.com.We also really loved the holographic sequinned floral corsages, placed either singly or as a whole garden blooming over a dress. So many ideas - typically for Kane, almost too many.
15:20 PM – Cold? Shrimps can stop your Shivering in a Heartbeat
Bourgeoisie in tweed and faux fur is the new kind of luxe at Shrimps. Hannah Weiland makes us want to go back to being cold, just so we can wear one of her coats. Citing all things Scottish as her inspiration, from Louise Bourgeois to the Loch Ness Monster, Weiland's tongue-and-cheek approach is relaxed yet engaging. Pearl clusters, a reimagined Shrimps leopard print and a palette inspired by artists Robert Peake and Rachel Ruysch make this the label you will be needing for your wardrobe over winter.
14:55 PM – The New World Order according to Dilara Findikoglu
It's dark, it's gothic, it's Dilara. For autumn/winter 2017, goths are wearing pearls and jewels, or at least they do in the mind of Dilara Findikoglu; the Turkish-born, London-based designer who's all about maximalism. Ornate embellishments join pins and tartan, in a nod to rebellion with this powerful message included in her show notes, "we are here because of past travesties".
Next to pastels and pinks we are seeing all over London catwalks, it's a breath of fresh air to see something angry and daring this Week. And LVMH obviously agrees as she's been shortlisted for the LVMH prize, which is being announced on Wednesday. In rebels we trust.
14:45 PM – Huishan Zhang has got us Swooning
A finalist for the British Fashion Council/Vogue Fashion Fund 2017 award, Huishan Zhang noted French film Chocolat as a main source of inspiration behind this collection. Add a touch of Hollywood glamour from the nostalgic Oscar winner La La Land and you have a charming collection packed with ruffles and romance.
14:00 PM – London is Freezing over at Sophia Webster's Presentation
Ice Queens of the world unite! Sophia Webster has proven yet again that no one's shoes are as playful as hers. Raving culture interjects with North Pole references in a collection that's as unapologetic as it gets. Crystal-covered, the Webster queen is definitely not freezing: she's on fire.
We got to talk to the designer herself about the collection and all things icy:
The inspiration behind this collection are ice queens so how did that come about?
I’ve got a two and a half year old little girl called Bibi, so she has Frozen on all of the time and I could really visualize it so I thought lets go for it.
Do you allow yourself to go wild in designs for your shows?
Yes we do, mostly for my runway collection as I need four collections a season and so can split it. My runway is the smallest collection and it’s the one where anything goes.
Even though your shoes are crazy and wild you make sure that you can still walk in them?
Yeah when I was at the Royal College of Art, they encouraged people to really go crazy and think outside of the box, but you can’t wear a shoe with a glass heel, some people were making. For me, if you can’t wear it, it’s a sculpture not a shoe. It’s really important that they’re functional and I try as be as creative as I can within the technical and comfort limitations. I love a challenge I am always up for it.
Finally, what is your preferred flavour of ice cream?
Coconut is my absolute favourite.
13:45 PM – Sharon Wauchob Returns to London
It’s only her second outing in London Fashion Week but Sharon Wauchob did not disappoint. With a solid reputation for great outerwear, this Autumn she’s promoting a shearling jacket and mixed English china prints. Her play of femininity with masculinity is hugely effective when we’re talking about the finest French lace mixed with precision tailoring.
13:30 PM – For Whenever You Need a Hero
It’s impossible to have seen today’s show at Roksanda without paying special attention to their new collaborative shoe collection with Mary Alice Malone and Roy Luwolt’s iconic footwear brand, Malone Souliers. Realised in a rich palette, the distinctive hero boots contrast ideologies of heavy-duty shape with soft material, masculine with feminine, manmade with organic, East with West.
12:45 PM – Theo VII Awakens the Spirit Inside
Established in 2015 by co-founders Miao Ho, Yui Ding and Tan Xue Yi, Theo VII is a relatively young label whose ethos focuses around obtaining balance, particularly between menswear and womenswear. Subverting the ordinary, their autumn/winter 2017 show was inspired by Shamanism and the spirit world. Individuality, rituals and the supernatural were themes behind the collection in telling the tales and histories of shamans. What it resulted in were asymmetric lines, layering and sharp contrasts in palette. Fringing, cut-outs and flat shoes added a sense of adventure to each look’s story. Overall, a sophisticated, eclectic collection that is aching to be worn.
13:00 PM – The Playful Spirit of Hill & Friends
Proving that a classic bag can have a sense of humour, Hill & Friends took their best sellers and injected some playful elements into the story. Male models are dressed as bellboys in their custom Hill & Friends uniforms, whilst bunny ears make up parts of tote clasps. It's one of those moments when Fashion Week truly makes us smile.
12:30 PM – It’s Not As It Seems at Pringle of Scotland
The heritage brand is known for illustrating the craftsmanship behind the traditional Scottish knit. Today’s autumn/winter 2017 collection from them showcased sophisticated innovations possible with knitwear, cementing its place on the catwalk. Maxi-length knits wrapped round models bodies in multiple directions and created a fantasy element to these elongated figures with never-ending silhouettes. Wet-look make-up together with an underlying serene mood caused notions of nymphs to spring up when watching the models walk. Adwoa Aboah breezed through the show in what we can only describe as a dramatic knitted gown, cementing the brands ability to reimagine knitwear in whichever fashion they desire. In reflecting on the show, you cannot fault Pringle of Scotland for the way that they approach their label. Avoiding the easy option of simply going for a body-con, their relaxed, draping shapes oozed sex-appeal in the most understated sense. Clever.
12:00 PM – It's Playtime for Peter Jensen
The autumn/winter 2017 offering from Peter Jensen injects his usual daily dose of fun into London Fashion Week. Turning a navy coat into a monochrome cartoon strip, the pop art style characters are dotted throughout the collection on socks, tops and jumpers. A palette of reds, blues and yellows radiate a Bauhaus feel to the collection as it is structured into rectangular panels with circle motifs. With caps and baby doll dresses, this season’s wearer is encouraged to embrace your inner child and relive your days of being the class clown.
11:45 AM – ERDEM gets Classical
Opening the show with Jamie Bochart, Erdem Moralioğlu sourced North African fabric mixes for inspiration with Sufi paintings of swirling white robes.
An artistic inspiration behind the autumn/winter 2017 collection
11:00 AM – A Perfect Reminder
Upon entering 180 the Strand for Roksanda Ilincic’s autumn/winter show, members of the audience were presented with a blue wall. In memory of the late designer Richard Nicoll, who tragically passed away in October last year, Roksanda included this shade in as a seperate look in the collection. Chosen by Pantone and friends of Richard Nicoll, the colour ensured that the tribute was intimate and understated, yet powerful and emotive.
10:55 AM – Roksanda Ilincic: The Lady in Red
In a moving tribute for the late Richard Nicoll, Roksanda Ilincic opened her autumn/winter 2017 show this morning with a head-to-toe powder blue ensemble in a look that was separate to the rest of her collection. Accompanied by a beautiful piece of music by the minimalist composer Michael Nyman, it was a poignant moment for London Fashion Week. This moment was heightened as Nyman is the first musician to be invited by Roksanda to accompany a show. Previously having composed pieces for operas and films such as The Piano, this is also Nyman's first delve into fashion.
The tribute look for Richard Nicoll
Inspired by the Dada Movement and nomadic explorations, the rest of the show was brimming with deep reds and blues. Layered looks intricately mixed shearling together with luxurious silks, wools and plissé. Silhouettes were soft and lengthened that gave the collection an added elegance. The first collection we have seen that will truly dress you for winter.