The Girlband of LFWM
Because the boys are not the only ones getting a share of the fun during men’s fashion month. As the excitement of London Fashion Week Men’s shifts onto Italy and Florence’s Pitti Uomo, we look back on our favourite looks for girls that walked against a multitude of strong menswear collections. Forget about Spice Girls, Destiny’s Child or TLC – the LFWM girl band is showing you the future of fashion (or at least the following season).
There are a few menswear designers that blend the ideas of femininity and masculinity as well as Grace Wales Bonner. And with her spring/summer 2018 collection, that mix is becoming simplified, with clean lines and structured yet effortless tailoring redefining both the men’s and the women’s silhouettes. And the latter we specifically fell in love with. In a printed twin-set, the Wales Bonner girl is the moody front-woman of the girl band, swaying with closed eyes and her hair covering her face.
The queen of punk continues to reign for spring/summer 2018. The Vivienne Westwood activist spectacle was an extravagant circus of music, dance, performance and great fashion. The wide-silhouette tailoring and anarchic prints were intertwined with her other classic elements such as the strapless corset-like gowns and T-shirts. The Westwood girl is obviously rocking the electric guitar, covered in an eclectic mix of patterns and assuming the sassiest of attitudes.
After showing her last collection which mixed up the girls and boys, Martine Rose has finally started celebrating the fact that girls love her menswear by offering them some pieces of their own! With a meeting of 1990s corporate and outdoor sartorial ideas, Rose brings back all of the childhood fashion memories – wallet-belts, oversized fleece zip-ups and business-trainers – in a desirable way. As expected, the Martine Rose girl is on the bass guitar – because coolest girls deserve coolest instruments.
MAN / Art School
The newest club kids on the block are here. Eden Loweth and Tom Barrat of Art School genuinely reflect the ever-so-relevant idea of genderless dressing. But in their world it’s not about wearing black, white or nude in baggy silhouettes. A peach-hued spaghetti-strapped velvet dress is as genderless as a pair of jeans. And their friend-cast show for spring/summer 2018 was definitely the biggest party of all the LFWM collections. And what better party girl there is than the one dressed in a big, layered gown? The Art School girl is there, just waiting to break into her keyboard solo.
Palm-trees, beaches, sunsets and parrots. If you had to connect these with a London’s menswear designer then Craig Green probably wouldn’t be on the top of the list. Yet he made all these elements absolutely his own in his spring/summer 2018 collection. By filtering the collage-like imagery through his signature techniques like quilting and string-fastenings, this collection peaked as one of the best of LFWM. And even though Green’s show was all about the menswear, his colourful quilts are definitely something that we see numerous women wearing. Including the moody drummer of the LFWM Because girl band – with a hood on her head, she’s defining the beat of this band the same way Green defines the beat of London’s fashion.
Text by Dino Bonacic