London Fashion Week: Day 4
Ashish models backstage
Fyodor Golan SS17
Christopher Kane SS17
Models backstage at Huishan Zhang SS17
Sharon Wauchob SS17
Pringle of Scotland SS17
NEWGEN Patches Pop-Up
Antonio Berardi SS17
Burberry wrapped up Day 4 with a plethora of looks (83 if you want to be exact) inspired by Virginia Woolf's Orlando, all now available to buy. You can also make your way down to Makers House in Soho for the next week to see Burberry Spring Summer 2017 in action.
London Fashion Week would miss something if it weren't for Ashish Gupta. His sequined spectacles put a smile even on the most serious faces of the fashion universe — yet this season, it wasn’t just fun.
Ashish is a show that always incorporates an underlying political message, but for Spring Summer 2017 it was louder than ever. “Brexit messed up my whole summer, but then it inspired me and I decided to do this shameless Indian extravaganza!” The runway was exactly that — an honest homage to the designer’s heritage, incorporating traditional techniques and creating contemporary garments that demand attention. But Gupta didn’t stop at traditional dress — the make-up, hairstyles, full-body jewellery and bare feet were all visual cues of the presence of Indian culture in this collection.
Today, the volume was turned all the way up and sequins were flying everywhere, reminding us where Gupta’s love for the textile actually comes from. There was even a massive python on the colourful fairy-lit runway, carried on the shoulders of one of the models — which was the most culturally diverse group of boys and girls we’ve seen this week.
“We have to celebrate Indian culture in this country because it plays such an important part in it — people joke how curry is the national cuisine in the UK!“ Well, based on the applause, Gupta may actually be a national fashion hero — despite his t-shirt stating otherwise.
Ashish Gupta with models in his SS17 collection
Reinventing the trench coat may not sound like the most original idea, but at Joseph’s Spring Summer 2017 show, the classic coat looked better than ever. Drawstrings and layering became luxurious, and transported the brand into a nomadic state of mind that will easily translate into their retail environment. The colour-coordinated location, the upbeat music, the male models —it was all such fun!
Joseph Spring Summer 2017
For pre-orders from Fyodor Golan's Spring Summer 2017 collection, a new ‘3D fashion e-commerce platform,’ Miximaliste.com has launched. Through 3D simulated content, only the products ordered are produced — meaning no prototyping, no physical stock and no waste. In the spirit of this collaboration, Fyodor Golan challenged the notion of the traditional runway show by creating a CGI animated collection whilst still presenting their designs on living models. The divide between reality and fantasy, virtual and tangible, has never been so blurred.
Fyodor Golan SS17
On his 10 year anniversary, 'make do and mend' was on top of Christopher Kane’s mind, but his interpretation was riffing on past collections. A notable moment was a Crocs collaboration — yes, Crocs —which has us wondering which editor will be trying them on first...
Huishan Zhang has been slowly and steadily developing his brand over the past five years, making very beautifully crafted clothes that are loved by a certain very social woman. And you can see why...these are clothes designed to flatter and impress.
"My woman has grown with me,' he said after the show. She's always been a strong woman, independent and smart." Browns has been buying the designer's collections since he graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2010 and he has been working hard between his studio in central London and the specialist factories he uses to produce beautifully made clothes in China that are not outrageously priced. He was shortlisted for the LVMH prize last year.
For his first show he chose St Andrews church in Holborn. "I was inspired by the Chinese artist Pan Yuliang to paint the female form. She was the first Chinese contemporary female painter, at a time [in the 1920s] when to paint the female form was unlawful."
We loved the graphic Pan Yuliang outlines beaded in pearls against black. Beautifully refined, but just the tiniest bit renegade.
A model walks down the Huishan Zhang runway
To set the scene for Sharon Wauchob's first show in London (though far from her first fashion show — the veteran has been on the scene since she graduated from Saint Martins in 1993) the designer chose St. Cyprian's, an ornate church in Marylebone. Perhaps in contradiction to the somewhat formal surroundings, or to suggest a new manner of ' Sunday Best', the Edun alum showed silky pyjama sets, softly pleated dresses and flowy trench coats - luxe, lounge-style chic.
Sharon Wauchob's London debut
Spotted: It's very true that London becomes even more lively and colourful during LFW. If you're around Soho, keep an eye out for some good old-fashioned street posters featuring one of our favourite NEWGEN labels — Molly Goddard.
Molly Goddard campaign in Soho
Knitwear is key at Pringle Of Scotland — but this season it's edgier than ever before. Reminiscent of late 1960s and early 1970s silhouettes, with some of the coolest shoes we've seen during LFW (courtesy of Malone Souliers), the label introduces raw textures and bright hues. Pringle is pushing through a fresh breath of that highland air into London fashion and we're loving every minute of it!
Erdem's woman is one that defies 'pretty' — she's busy wearing a lovely dress doing beautiful things with wonderful manners, even though she may sneak out for a cigarette or two. She's enchanting with a glint of mischief in her eye, and the designer's Spring Summer 2017 collection caters for her wonderfully.
London Fashion week always provides some bits and bobs to serve as sartorial memorabilia — this season it's the NEWGEN patches you can get sewn onto your favourite piece of clothing, right on the spot. You can choose from a Molly Goddard doll-face, a Sadie Williams flag, Paula Knorr's painting brush, Ashley Williams' cat or some Marta Jakubowski old-school punk patches. Or just have them all!
NEWGEN pop-up, Patches
Roksanda showed an outstanding collection of sophisticated dresses and tailored pieces that played with textures and mixes of fabrics. Her trademark use of rich, charming colours like dusty yellows and pinks were honed to perfection. This is a collection all women will want to invest in and treasure.
Antonio Berardi is the forgotten master of London Fashion Week. He described his collection as a progression, and it is a work in progress that he has been honing and perfecting for almost 25 years. Sure, he does what he does and doesn't really waver from his devotion to incredible tailoring, and the pursuit of the ultimate in femininity with the most luxurious of fabrics - iridescent paisley brocade, the finest crepe, the lightest gauze - and it can seem out of kilter with the youthful sportswear taking over the fashion industry. But if you are that woman in need of really properly constructed, beautifully considered clothes, Berardi is your man.
There was something devilish about Antonio Berardi's Spring Summer 2017 show. It may have been the lingerie-like lacy backs or the heavy embellishments hugging the models' bodies, but it most likely was his way of combining individual elements into one big show.
The subject of the show was duality and the beauty found in contrast — tensions between two thoughts, two ideas, which resulted in tailoring with corset boning, a kimono coat turned into a loose blouson and hot mini dresses with billowing sleeves. He reworked some of his recurring themes - masculine vs. feminine, outerwear and underwear, practical and whimsical - and managed to infuse them with an air of ease that made them seem timelier. Ultimately, these are formal, grown-up clothes shown in a city that is obsessed with youth and casual encounters of a fashion kind.
A model walks the runway at Antonio Berardi SS17