This time last year, thanks to the fetish trend, everyone was psyching themselves up to strap into a harness, reconsidering bondage-inspired leatherwear for any occasion. But for autumn/winter 2012, leather has evolved. It is still dark, gothic and slick, but the kinky, Miss Whiplash feel has subdued - making way for texture and experimentation. Alexander Wang manipulated the fabric with coats appearing as though the leather had been shrink-wrapped or corrugated. At Proenza Schouler, asymmetric jackets and skirts were made in perforated, quilted and latticed leather. Elsewhere, smooth panels made up an austere-yet-feminine dress at Calvin Klein Collection, and Hermès went for long, clean dresses that skimmed the tops of leather boots. Theyskens' Theory created a vamped-up jumpsuit worthy of Cat Woman, while Diesel Black Gold offered baggy leather trousers, slung low (a key shape for the season). Valentino took the idea of native costumes, creating traditional folk dresses and capes, made modern with leather. Riccardo Tisci's oil slick dresses at Givenchy nodded to the material's sexiness and, taking a cue from his show's make-up, a hit of deep plum lipstick finishes a leather look perfectly.