

Yves Saint Laurent
For his final collection at the helm of the YSL empire, Stefano
Pilati explored the darker side of fashion, as models came down the
runway with slicked-back hair, dark lips and super sharp cuts in
austere black. Pilati played with a hyper-sexy femme fatale fused
with a dash of fetish and lashings of leather. That's the way to
end an era.

Miu Miu
Suit up! Miuccia Prada is always quite pragmatic with a touch of
playfulness, and this collection is undeniably going to make more
than one working woman happy as she put the emphasis on suits for
next autumn/winter. Worn together or separately, we love the modern
and feminine feel to these tailored garments, without disregarding
of course the embellished shirts. Getting dressed up in the morning
will certainly be a piece of cake.

Louis Vuitton
Embark on the Vuitton Express and travel through time on a
journey through the golden age. Stepping off a giant steam train,
models walked down the runway accompanied by porters carrying Louis
Vuitton's iconic leather goods. The strongest pieces of the
collection were these embroidered ensembles with Stephen Jone's
squashed millinery. One thing is sure, Marc Jacobs knows how to put
on a show!

Alexander McQueen
Sarah Burton's extavangazza at Alexander McQueen keeps getting
bigger, quite literally this season. An explosion of feathers
and ruffles was teamed with futuristic slicked back platinum
hair and metallic eye masks. The collection was certainly for the
most fearless creatures out there.

Chloé
Clare Waight Keller's brought some groove back to the French
brand. It's only her second collection but we are already sold and
this nude coloured coat makes the dark skies of next autumn/winter
much more appealing.

Kenzo
Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have
been a very busy pair this season turning out no less that 50 looks
for autumn/winter. The collection (staged across three levels that
saw models climb escalators to show off the pieces) played with the
idea of interiors. Marble floors
inspired a print and grapes made for a stand out
pattern across a suit. Since Leon and
Lim jarrived at Kenzo last year, the brand has become one of the
hottest tickets in Paris.

Hermès
Christophe Lemaire keet the essence of the equestrian woman in
this collection but took her to new foreign lands - she is the
Hermès luxury traveller after all. He started with poncho knits
slung over baggy leather trousers and slouchy boots in black
but as the show went on, it beautifully transitioned into a
more feminine and ethnic colelction of detailed prints.

Akris
These curved booties at Akris caught our attention on the
runway. They're a feat of engineering that echos the clean
silhouettes of the collection.

Givenchy
Ricardo Tisci continues to deliver this season after much
furore surrounding his prints and pre-autumn/winter boots.
This time he explored a rather unusual theme: equestrian lady meets
goth. The result was collection of babydoll dresses with black lace
details and over the elbow gloves, razor sharp cuts to jackets and
blazers, knee-high boots and leather in abundunce.

Lanvin
Alber Elbaz's marked his 10th year as head of the Lanvin
house and with the celebrations came a collection that showed off
just why Elbaz sits at the top of the fashion tree, doing what he
does best - flattering a woman's figure. Body hugging shapes
curved round the models figures, skirts kicked out from tiny waists
whist jackets cut perfectly around hips and coats were tightly
belted. The party got started as the gold brocade selections
arrived and models draping coloured furs and gems strutted down the
catwalk. And of course as Elbaz himself took to singing to the
audience.

Maison Martin Margiela
Maison Martin Margiela's iconic clean lines took a new direction
into very deconstructed garments this season. We fell in love with
this grey/purple asymetric dress as seen on model Alla
Kostromichova.

Dior
Bill Gaytten flirted with a rather soft and contemporary
collection that was loyal to the Lady Dior image. Inspired by
the ballet, chiffon peeked beneath hems while other dresses made a
more obvious statement with layers of tulle. But like the black
swan, there was a toughness to counter balance the sweetness too.
Necklines were twisted in leather, a leather panel streaked down a
plum dress and black leather was added to the front of a nipped in
jacket.

Neil Barrett
With a play on texture and volumes, Neil Barrett's has us under
his spell. Tailoring, a signature of Barrett's was near perfect as
shapes were supersized and yet still flattering. These dynamic
shapes should be seen on the backs of the fash pack come next
winter.

Sacai
Designer Chitose Abe knows how to make clothes that women will
want to wear. We loved the tough feminine vibe of these looks with
accents of lace peeking out of bottom of skirts paired with sharp
tailoring and stiff collars.