The Old Sorting Office in London was transformed into an
enchanted forest for McQ - the second line from Alexander McQueen.
Designer Sarah Burton did away with any street wear references for
a grown up, high fashion collection. Tulle prom dresses were
belted, heavy velvet jackets and tailored coats appeared as did
plenty of detailed embellishment and embroidery.
A lesson in great showmanship came from Christopher Bailey at
Burberry where for the finale of the show a clap of thunder
released gold rain and models took their final walk under
umbrellas. The show, titled Town and Field was a very English
offering of tweeds and velvets in all the colours of autumn.
The rainbow coloured flowers of Kane's spring collection had
wilted to be replaced by a darker more sinister feel for
autumn/winter. Kane returned to tough leather and a pallet of deep
purples, reds and plums for a collection that seemed to mash the
most diverese references together. Pencil skirts
in floral prints were teamed with cable sweaters or ribbed jumpers.
Pin striped leather skirts appeared and signature clever cut out
dresses should keep fashion editors and Kane lovers very happy
Maybe it has something to do with a certain sporting event
coming up or maybe it's just the lure of cozy-comfort dressing but
Roksanda Ilincic gave the sportswear a luxury twist. Slouchy
hoodies were made evening wear-acceptable in navy silk and jogging
bottoms were teamed with fur and velvet trainers. We won't see this
on the track but we certainly will at red carpet events and
loitering round Somerset House next season.
Russian folklore and bohemia collided beautifully at Temperley.
Long floor skimming tulle dresses were embroidered with bright
florals complete with giant fur hats. Thick black cape like coats
with gold fastenings and long leather cloves enveloped another
model and fine gold beading and embroidery worked it's way through
London's young talent Simone Rocha showed just why she's grown
from Fashion East runways to one all to herself this season. Her
innovative work with textures was felt throughout from frosted lace
skirt suits, silver leather minis and wool fringing round the hips
of one look or a pile across the front of a perspex dress. She
upholds the city's reputation for nurturing bright design
With equestrian looks and a dash of the tennis club thrown in
this was a collection for ladies. But not that there is anything
stuffy about what Saunders is doing with his label. With a base
colour of brown a selection of swing frocks, equestrian coats,
and full-flared skirts appeared peppered with shots of lilac,
red and light blue.
Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos followed
on from where they left off last season with high-necked,
scuba-inspired silhouettes with yellow florals and abstract prints.
But it was the cleverly cut and printed puffer jackets that stole
Joanna Sykes for her third season at Aquascutumn focused on
power dressing. But there were no big shoulders and suits on her
runway, just clean tailoring, strong shapes and architectural
details for impact.
London's wild side was unleashed at Louise Gray. Eye popping
graphics, mohawk hats, gobstopper sized earrings and did we mention
the prints? This was one hyper-vivid collection.
Pringle of Scotland
Alistair Carr styled
his collection around an old girlfriend imagining what she might
look like now. And judging from this collection she's one well
Sister by Sibling
This was always going to be an out-there kind of show but Sister
by Sibling outdid themselves. Models wore glitter masks adorned
with pom poms, knits featured giant skulls with Mickey Mouse ears
and bright orange leopard print ran throughout.
Drawn in Light
Drawn in Light are a label to keep a carful watch on. Designers
Harry Barford and Polly
Wilkinson specialise in hand
silk screening with each unique piece produced in their London
Moschino Cheap and Chic
2012 at Moschino Cheap & Chic went for a pallet of ice cream
pastels and silhouettes that touched on the '60s. Creative
director Rosella Jardini literally translated makeup and Queen
Elizabeth inspirations into lipstick and nail varnish prints with
prim gloves and pearls.
Michael van der Ham
Composed collages mixed with forties tailoring
is van der Ham's latest collection. Think Rita Hayworth and
Veronica Lake infused with pastel metallics, floral patterns,
python-effect cut-outs and dreamy drapes.
A dream factory come to life, Anya Hindmarch presented a line of
delectable sparkly pretty little things, from clutches to totes, in
eye-popping colours: sour grape, sweet cherry or fizzy orange.
These are the bags we want for autumn/winter 2012.