3.1 Philip Lim
Philip Lim played again with the superhero theme he embraced for pre-autumn/winter. Though there were sleek capes there were no slogan knits. What came instead was a collection of tailored coats, chunky knits and sharp trousers all in monochrome.
Rodarte
The Australian Outback inspired the Mulleavy sisters to create cave-painting print dresses, burnt orange coats with matching skirts and dusty coloured dresses. A very wearable collection from the pair but with the eccentricities Rodarte fans will love still.
Calvin Klein Collection
Francisco Costa sent voluminous midi dresses down the runway bound with metal belts. The austerity of black, conservative shapes were made sexy with cut out sheer panels and nipped in waists.
Ralph Lauren
Downton Abbey's influence made its way onto the runway of Ralph Lauren. Suits and chic long jackets started out costume drama-esq but looks became more modern as evening wear arrived. Slinky fuchsia dresses made there way down the runway as did elegant black dresses.
Diesel Black Gold
Diesel Black Gold got tough and street savvy in NYC for autumn/winter 2012. Sophia Kokosalaki (who stayed at home for the show as she was expecting a baby) delivered a powerful yet relaxed collection. Plenty of leather appeared as did low slung belts and buttoned up shirts. The pallet of great made way for pinks and crimsons or leopard prints.
Jason Wu
The Mao the Qing Dynasty and Hollywood interpretations of the Chinese inspired Wu this season. The Taiwanese designer worked in a colour pallet of red, black and gold to present his vision of the East.
Marc Jacobs
Stoles sat on the shoulders of padded coats layered over cropped trousers, printed dresses and bucked shoes with socks. Giant mink hats flopped over models faces as they strode down the runway. At Marc Jacobs, eccentricity ruled.
Thakoon
Ed and Nancy Kienholz's installation re-creating Amsterdam's red-light district, The Hoerengracht. The piece gave the designer not only his photo print (neon tube lights) and color palette (red, fuchsia, and raspberry), but also the show's kinky undercurrent. His silhouettes were rooted in the conventional-Audrey Hepburn in her prime was on the mood board, too-but he tweaked them, adding padded hips to accentuate the hourglass curve on a gray knit dress and inserting black leather basket weave, "like a confessional screen," into the bodice of an LBD. A pair of trenchcoats with cutouts at the throat were worn as dresses with nothing underneath.
