Hourglass arrived in the UK as a beneath-the-radar collection which came with the faint whisperings of a cult following in the US. Weeks into its presence in Liberty and at Zuneta, it had established itself as the coolest thing to happen to cosmetics this year. Check out Kay Montano using lots of the now bestselling products in our Beauty Tutorials, and meet CEO and founder, Carisa Janes.

 

What or who inspires you?

Art mostly but also music, my dogs and living by the beach in Venice, California.

 

How do you conceive your products?

Since we rely on cutting-edge ingredients, most of them are born in the lab. During the process all the girls in the office, myself included, become willing guinea pigs. We have an exhaustive approach to testing new products, shades and textures.

  

Which one product could you not be without?

Hourglass Veil Mineral Primer. It eliminates redness, softens fine lines and pores, and creates a smooth canvas for your makeup. Plus it has SPF 15. I wear it every single day.

 

What is it about London that inspires you?

So many things in London move me: Architecture, street style and the women and their love of makeup.

 

Which other beauty product do you wish you'd created?

I wish I'd invented mascara. It's such an indispensable item.

 

Who makes up your own beauty entourage?

Brows: Tonya Crooks; facialist: Diana Podeanu at Ma Maison de Beaute; hair in NY: Rachel Coppola at Prive Salon; hair in LA: Nora Mercado at Umberto.

 

Who makes up your dream team on a shoot?

We work with a rotating team. Gina Brooke, Madonna's makeup artist, is our incredible Artistic Director. Last season we shot with an amazing photographer called Donna Trope, and she's a genius when it comes to beauty images. 

 

What's next?

In the spring, we're releasing our third foundation which is a godsend for those with oily complexions. Immaculate Liquid Powder Foundation is so mattifying is does away with the need to be constantly touching-up your makeup. It also has clinical levels of two amazing new anti-ageing ingredients.

 

Text: Grace Timothy

If you go to Percy & Reed for a short back and sides, you're sure to sit there with your mouth hanging open as A-lister after A-lister gets their hair coiffed by Paul Percival, Adam Reed and their team of talented stylists. Last time I was in there, Noel Gallagher had his signature mod mop trimmed. These two have also launched their own haircare and styling range this year, and are now in the midst of a salon refurb. Theirs are the names to know in cult hairdressing. Meet Percy & Reed.

 

What or who inspires you?

PP: Passionate people who have the drive to achieve the highest standard of work.

AR: There are so many people and things that inspire me - Guido Palau for his amazing and inspirational work.

 

What's been the proudest moment in your career?

PP: Walking in to Space NK and seeing Percy & Reed products on the shelf.

AR: Yes, seeing the Percy and Reed 'hair' range in Space NK Covent garden was amazing. We had spent 2 years developing the range so to see it on shelf was a great experience. Then to hear the team in store singing its praises was fantastic!

 

Who do you love to style?

PP: People like Marina and the Diamonds and the Hurts, as they are always up for trying something new.

AR: I love working with Sophie Dahl and Diane Kruger - they are both so classically beautiful and they wear their hair so well in any style. 

 

What about London inspires you?

PP: The history. There are so many new cities - New York, Sydney - but London has heritage.

AR: The realness of London is what really inspires me - the individuality, the sense of adventure, the element of classic... it's a real mixing pot. I love the fact that you really can expect the unexpected.

 

Which look, tool or hair product do you wish you were responsible for?

PP: Ceramic straighteners as they have made life easier for so many people.

AR: The Marcel Wave. I LOVE this look - it can be kept classic or adapted to be really modern.

 

Who makes up your own beauty entourage?

PP: Being on my feet styling hair all day tends to affect my back, so once a month I try to get a massage. Other than that my trusty hairdresser, Neil Wooley.

AR: For facials, Yvonne Martin is amazing; for nails, David Barton is a genius. Neil Wooley cuts my hair.

 

And who makes up your dream team on a shoot?

PP: As a model, Erin O'Connor; the stylist, Alton Hetariki; the photographer, Simon Emmett, and for makeup, Cassie Lomas.

AR: My dream model is Eliza Cummings, makeup artist is Mel Artor, and photographer is Rick Guest.

 

What's next?

PP: We are refurbishing our london salon and will re-launch in spring of next year.

AR: We are also working on some great products to add to our existing range - all top secret at the moment - and in the process of looking for a second shop. It's all very exciting.

 

Text: Grace Timothy

Julian Kynaston founded one of today's biggest makeup houses - Illamasqua, and is still joint MD with Joe Corre. A passionate, anarchic champion of makeup, he describes wearing Illamasqua as "...wearing war paint against mediocrity."

 
What's the founding philosophy of your brand?

To provide both a choice and a permission for women and men to wear make up differently and to discover either a more confident or sexual (or whatever) alter ego through a look that they have never dared wear.  In doing so to provide an alternative to those brands who want to dictate a specific look and who use fashion simply to encourage people to buy more make up in order to keep up with it. 

 
What or who inspires you?

 
Being told that the beauty market place in particular make up impenetrable as it was owned predominantly by four French giants, being repeatedly told that to launch a brand to a level that it was both international, respected and commercially viable could only be done through 25 years of steady growth or a hundred million pounds of launch money, it was this that primarily spurred me to prove otherwise and that a British private business could achieve a major status in just 3 years and only 10 million pounds.  In addition to this ~I have always been inspired by youth culture and the creation of emotional brands which are achieved through the quality of the product and not the hyping of a less than superior product.
 

 
What's been your proudest moment in your career?
 

When the competition became aware of what we were achieving and went within 12 short months from saying we wouldn't/couldn't last beyond a year to then going back to the drawing board to try to copy our theatre, to try to poach our best counter staff only to find that money could not lure these people who were bought into our deeper ethics and philosophies and then to see the giants of the sector literally and without shame or apology copy our lead in terms of our visual imagery and product, I think being told repeatedly by our clients that what they get with Illamasqua is more than what we directly bring them but also the reaction of there existing beauty brands to raise their game upon our arrival, which of course is great news for them.
 

Which women wear your looks most beautifully?

 
I don't know her name but I'm told that a very conservative looking middle aged woman visited Selfridges Oxford Street around 18 months ago when we lead the trend on the black/very dark blue lipsticks, she came to our counter saying that "this feels like a place I can try a dark blue lipstick" this for me unpinned that an alter ego can exist at any level and her wearing that lipstick is no less a transformation as our legion of followers who exist as men by day and women by night.  She actually was probably braver, so to me she is the answer to this question because she proves that Illamasqua does not have a target customer, what it does have is a target state of mind which is exactly what we set out to achieve.
 

What is it about London that inspires you?

It is the wonderful characters of a few individuals who exist in the shadows of Soho who are loyal to it's past and resentful of its current state.  These individuals such as Phil Dirtbox and Jake Vegas who have crafted their characters to reflect their true hearts and have actually moved fully to become their own alter egos.  They are kind people, they can have good conversation that isn't driven about Xfactor or the like, and they inspire. 

 
Which other beauty product do you wish you'd created?

 
Actually me and my girlfriend have just discovered Crystal Clear which is a range of fo skin care products, the quality and immediacy of their effect is truly astounding. 
 

Who makes up your own beauty entourage?

 
Mainly I tend to rely on Spob, Daniel and Ross from our team, and at the moment I put my dress code in the hands of either Rita Britain at Pollyanna or the team at Child of the Jago, I just let them play with me
 
 
www.Illamasqua.com

 

Text: Grace Timothy