The Other MA Fashion Show

Every year, some of the most promising designers on the MA Fashion course at Central Saint Martins don’t make it to the show at London Fashion Week. That might have little to do with the quality of their collections – the tutors have to bear in mind the collective impact of their choice of designers, measuring tempo, focus, photo potential and much more. “It's the toughest job of the year for the MA tutors” says MA Fashion Communication course leader, Roger Tredre. 

This year, in an enterprising response, eight of the non-selected students decided to produce their own show, The Other MA Fashion Show. Within five days, they secured a central Marylebone venue, a Jubel drinks partnership, and a turnout so strong that attendees were scrambling to view through outside windows.  

The designers’ collections explored everything from masculinity and queerness to existentialism and suffering. Despite spanning such broad topics, it was clear that expression and identity was the unifying narrative within the show, a fitting undercurrent for this independently-led creative pursuit. 

Valeriia Krasheninnikova’s collection was an indisputable highlight. She explored “how imitation can become the canvas for liberation”, producing uniquely constructed pieces that spoke to fashion’s multifaceted potential for hope. Her collection appeared to be somewhat built on optical illusion, the most striking of which was a green satin bomber, false arms tucked into the pockets. In creating these additional limbs, Valeriia offered an artful reminder that there is always more than meets the eye; hope can exist even when it may appear otherwise.

The mission was led by Chris Holland Brandt, a loquacious and energetic American streetwear designer whose playful, 80s-reminiscent collection was a notable highlight. Creative, exaggerated, almost animated-style shoe covers were the thread that wove his collection, a playful reminder that the most notable looks really are a head-to-toe endeavour. To Chris, producing the event wasn’t about rectifying fractured egos. Instead, “it was a way to show the strength of our work and our resolve. We made it happen, and I’m really proud.”  

Chris reached out to 20 students, but the commitment required was a heavy ask. “The reality is that this is the type of event that everybody involved needs to pull their weight and really be dedicated to the cause. So for the eight designers who showed, it was really exciting, and they were all super dedicated,” he says. 

Amber Pickup, whose collection ‘Can of Coke and a Curly Wurly’ closed the show, said the experience was overwhelming and a source of immense pride. Her designs were y2k reminiscent, a fusion of “something old, something new, something borrowed and something kinda slutty.” Her standout piece was a refashioned black t-shirt, structured with corset boning to create a look that pushed the boundaries of constrictive design. Amber was relieved to have taken part in the show: “I’m so happy that we did it. It’s disappointing when you don’t get into the show. We decided just to see what we could do with our contacts – we had like no money, it’s absolutely crazy.”

After the show, Because spoke to MA Fashion course leader Fabio Piras, who was equally invigorated by the students’ pursuit. “I thought it was really good. I love the energy of a show like this off schedule, organised by the designers themselves. It has a raw feel that is actually really fresh to see. I know that I represent an institution with a big show, but as an audience, I love things like this.”
 
While the designers led the mission, the show’s outcome entailed collaboration with CSM’s wider community. Sakshi Patil, MA Fashion Journalism, took over the social media, and a host of MA Fashion Image photographers captured the event. The models included Jimena Martinez (MA Fashion) and Luca Andrea (MA Fashion Image). Maya Kale (MA Fashion Journalism) also worked behind the scenes. “There’s a pressure as a CSM student, but as a designer in particular. They’re told ‘London Fashion Week, London Fashion Week’, and when you don’t get into it, you question whether to even continue. But they’re continuing, and it’s really cool.”
 
Chris noticed that on the London fashion scene, selling isn’t necessarily an immediate priority, but young designers “still need to make a living”. By displaying their collections as part of a show, Chris hopes that buyers are more likely to have run an eye over his work for future reference. 
 
The full list of eight designers included Marie Plucknett, Anna Filzmoser, Tiano Tian, Ilaria Guerra, Valeriia Krasheninnikova, Byungyoon Lee, Chris Holland Brandt and Amber Pickup. All names to watch. While this may be the first The Other MA Fashion Show, we suspect it will not be the last; these students have set a stellar precedent for the years to come.