The Making of Old

Worn design in the luxury landscape is often misunderstood as casual, accidental, even careless. In fashion’s reality, the appearance of ease usually comes from confidence rather than treating clothes like an afterthought. When dressing prioritises use, clothes are freed from constant adjustment and correction. They are allowed to move, drape, rub and age without interference, to naturally interact and evolve within our daily lives. At a time when perfection feels both outdated and increasingly unattainable, wear has become newly compelling, not as damage, but as evidence of true craft. It is in this context that Miu Miu introduces Making of Old, a project that reframes ageing as a craft in itself, deliberate, studied and quietly demanding.

In their new campaign Making of Old, wear is not applied for effect. It is constructed and designed through labour. Miu Miu begins with leather that already carries variation. Each hide is examined, then sanded, washed and brushed by hand so that rigidity is removed while character remains. This is a deliberate process, one that treats ageing as a discipline rather than an afterthought. Shoes bend easily. Bags soften quickly. Jackets feel familiar from the first wear, as if Chloë Sevigny had already lived in them. Not distressed, not degraded, but ready. This approach extends across the wardrobe, from smart loafers and lace up boots to the Arcadie and Wander bags. Nothing is treated lightly.

On the contrary, this is precision masquerading as ease. What could be more precious than that?

Wear is, of course, not new in fashion. It has simply been used differently. Golden Goose has built an empire on shoes that arrive already scuffed, rough and marked, selling the aesthetic of use to an audience largely unlikely to put their shoes through that kind of abrasion themselves. The distress is immediate, visible and intentional, giving the shoe a character from the outset. Rather than evolving significantly through use, the wear establishes a stable aesthetic identity. One that emphasises recognisability and consistency over gradual transformation.

Under Gucci’s new realm with Creative Director Demna, wear becomes narrative. We first saw this in SS26’s La Famiglia collection, heritage pieces such as the Jackie appear with softened leather and scratched bamboo handles, referencing decades of use, as if Jackie herself was wearing your bag whilst jaunting across Central Park. The gesture is cinematic, compressing time and history into one image or silhouette. The creased Jackie signals longevity, but remains anchored in revival rather than continuation.

This is where Miu Miu’s approach feels assured. Its leather is not styled to look worn, but prepared to be worn. Ageing is not presented as a finished effect, but as something that unfolds through repetition, handling and time. Making of Old does not just aestheticise wear. It leaves room for it.