Redefining Transparency 

The release of the Margiela folders is a bold move that will allow an unprecedented level of behind the scenes access to the brand, and begs the question: how will all this new transparency impact the brand? 

The ripple of concern that was felt through the industry as the Paris fashion week schedule was released, and Maison Margiela was nowhere to be found, was set to rest with Tuesday's announcement. ‘Maison Margiela are proud to announce Maison Margiela folders, a fresh way to experience the work of the Maison. At the core of the brand are the ideas, codes, and values that shape both our heritage and our future.’ This announcement represents a complete change in gear from the brand, in terms of how they are thinking about connecting with their fans and the industry going forward. The ‘internal dropbox folders’ (fashion's favourite digital platform for sharing work) are now available globally, and will be used by the team at Maison Margiela to store images, project timelines, press releases and an array of other working documents. This is the first time the public is being allowed such an in depth insight into a process which was once reserved only for the team or the media. 

And with this big reveal (in all senses), Maison Margiela is going to Shanghai. On April 1st, the brand will show  its Fall - Winter 26 collection in China followed by several exhibitions across the country, each dedicated to the different facets that they define as the brand’s core pillars ‘Artisanal, our couture line; Anonymity, the concealment and creativity through our masks; Tabi, our split-toe shoe collected by a global community; and Bianchetto, our white overpaint technique part of our creative language.’

The change in pace from a brand with a founder that didn't even want to be interviewed face to face in the twenty years he was at the helm, to  a brand with a dropbox of insider insights into their whole process, is undeniably drastic. I’d argue that the overload of information and onus of self-directed work to go through all of it on the customer is detrimental. Too much information risks the potential loss of allure, the very thing that rooted the foundation of the brand. From the discrete four stitch label, to the unique leather finish, Margiela is arguably built on an ‘if you know, you know’ kind of elitism. Now that anyone can access everything surrounding the collections with such ease, and understand these brand-defining Margiela signals, does that begin to de-value the signals altogether? How will the Tabi fare if it loses its defining love or hate discourse on the platforms if we know too much?

In-depth fashion education, whether that of yesterday or the now, is vital for the future of fashion commentary. So for a brand to open up its process means an opening opportunity of democratic fashion education and insight, which may allow for a bigger separation between the obsessive Margiela fans and the surface level ones. It will create a gap between those staying in the loop with the constantly updated folders, and those just watching the shows. An interesting conundrum we look forward to seeing how it plays out, and until then, you’ll find us delving into the constantly updated world of Margiela via the click of a mouse.You too can delve into the folders by clicking: https://maisonmargielafolders.com/archive-codes/exhibitions/april2026/project-library