Better Late Than Never

In the world of fashion, there is often a tension between the desire to be everywhere and the necessity of being where it truly matters. For years, I’ve watched Copenhagen Fashion Week from a distance, deterred only by the sheer saturation of the global circuit. However, it took the landmark 20th anniversary of CPHFW to finally pull me to the Nordics—and frankly, I’m wondering why I waited so long. Beyond the "Scandi-cool" street style, what truly commands respect here is the Sustainability Framework Cecilie Thorsmark has pioneered. By mandating a robust set of minimum standards—now being mirrored by other global fashion weeks—CPHFW provides an authoritative guidance that transforms a runway show from a mere spectacle into an assured statement of brand integrity.

Holzweiler
Marking a poignant homecoming for their 10th anniversary, the Norwegian powerhouse Holzweiler showed in a hangar that had never been used for a fashion show before, a perfect setting for a collection from the masters of the elevated "puffer." FW26 was titled "Preservation," and the brand delivered outerwear that felt like a protective embrace. Known for their seamless blend of functionality and aa fashion-forward edge, Creative Director Maria Skappel Holzweiler sent out floor-sweeping scarves and sheer layers juxtaposed against heavy shearling and distressed leather created a silhouette that was at once fragile and formidable—the chic  sartorial response to a cold Scandinavian winter.

Baum und Pferdgarten
Celebrating over 25 years of design, Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave looked to the skies this season, drawing inspiration from aviation icon Amelia Earhart. The show balanced the two halves of Earhart’s life: the utilitarian pilot and the high-society elegant. We saw chocolate-brown leather aviator jackets and flight suits tucked into boots, which transitioned beautifully into velvet frocks with delicate ruffles. Most impressive was their transparency; the duo shared that 70% of the fabrics met their new "preferred" standards, proving that heritage brands can successfully pivot toward a more responsible future. And most delightful was a live choir of girls that made the backdrop of the show as lively as what was in front of us.

Holzweiler AW26

Skall Studio AW26

Skall Studio 

The Skall sisters, Julie and Marie, are the definitive voices of Danish conscious minimalism, and their FW26 showing was a serene "moment of stillness." Building on their "La Danse" theme, the collection was a poetic exploration of movement and natural fibers. Known for their signature knits and sun-bleached palettes, this season felt particularly grounded and had styling elements like figure-skates and gloves tucked in belts. The introduction of accessories made from orange and cactus waste was a highlight, blending seamlessly with their fluid, floor-length coats and delicate lace that spiralled out from under jackets. It was a collection that didn't shout to be heard; instead, it whispered a convincing argument for slow, intentional fashion. Plus, the charming bulbs on each of our seats was a reminder that Spring brings new life.

Paolina Russo

The London energy arrived via Paolina Russo, the 2023 Zalando Visionary Award winners who continue to redefine "nostalgic futurism." Their collection, "Monolithics," felt like a folkloric rave, blending their signature warrior-knit bodice tops with airbrushed denim that echoed prehistoric cave drawings. Known for their textile innovation, the duo utilized "Oleatex"—a leather alternative made from olive oil waste—proving that technical edge and environmental responsibility are not mutually exclusive. It was high-octane, craft-heavy, and provided a jolt of youthful, DIY-inspired energy with model-knitter Ella Emhoff opening the show and French singer OK-Lou providing a live soundtrack. Oh, it was held at the baroque, gold-pannelled French Embassy too, a fitting location for a collection inspired by a "class trip" held there.

Rave Review 

After a five-year hiatus from the Copenhagen stage, the Swedish upcycling darlings Rave Review made a triumphant return that felt both sharper and more refined. Founders Josephine Bergqvist and Livia Schück have moved beyond their "blanket coat" origins into a sophisticated study of deadstock tailoring. Inspired by 1970s Swedish sustainability pioneers Mah-Jong, the collection featured exaggerated "boned" shoulders and hips that gave lightweight floral linens a structural, almost avant-garde authority. The atmospheric soundscape was provided by the Swedish musical duo 7ebra—twin sisters Inez and Ella Johansson from Malmö—were the perfect sonic counterpart to the clothes, as their minimalist, indie-pop sound blended violin with haunting, synchronized vocal harmonies.

Nazzal Studio


In one of the most significant moments of the week, Sylwia Nazzal became the first Palestinian designer to show on the official CPHFW schedule. Her collection, "Al-Najah" (Survival), was staged within The David Collection - a location of immense significance as it houses Scandinavia's largest collection of Islamic art. By placing her contemporary Palestinian narrative within these historic walls, Nazzal created a powerful bridge between ancestral heritage and modern resistance. The experience was more than an intimite show; it was a multi-sensory dialogue. Nazzal collaborated with artist JAd Maq, whose influence was felt in the architectural jewellery and the custom-developed, hand-painted latex that mimicked the fragility of skin. As moels moved through the room, the space was filled with the haunting strings of Billal, an Oud player who had flown in from Palestine, grounding the avant-guard silhouettes in an ancient musical tradition. Combined with the macramé pieces hand-woven by Palestinian refugee women, the debut was a poignant reminder that fashion, at its best, is a vessel for cultural survival and human resiliance.

Studio Constance AW26

The Future: CPHFW NEWTALENT

Copenhagen’s commitment to the next generation is perhaps best embodied by the NEWTALENT programme, a vital incubator currently supporting a stellar roster including Stem, Bonnetje, and Anne Sofie Madsen, alongside "One To Watch" recipients Studio Constance, Sson, and Taus.

Taus Studio delivered a hauntingly beautiful debut runway show titled "Female Rage," transforming discarded home textiles into hand-stitched, demi-couture masterpieces. Anne Sofie Madsen returned with a "ghost story" of a collection, cleverly recontextualizing vintage blankets into draped dresses and collaborating with Pandora for intricate body-armor jewelry. Materiality was at the forefront for Stem, where Sarah Brunnhuber’s "To Wool" collection served as a rhythmic ode to zero-waste weaving via "Elastic Wool" knits. Finally, Bonnetje reached a surrealist peak with Cadavre Exquis, proving that circularity is the most exciting frontier in modern tailoring through gowns constructed from repurposed suit sleeves.

The Stay: 1 Hotel Copenhagen

In a city that practically invented the concept of hygge, the newly opened 1 Hotel Copenhagen manages to elevate "cozy" into a profound statement of luxury. This sanctuary in the Latin Quarter is a masterclass in biophilic design, and it was wonderful that my room overlooked a library. Between the reclaimed Dinesen wood underfoot and the lush living walls that act as the building’s lungs, there is a tangible sense of serenity and a near-forest of trees and plants at reception give you a sense of clean air, and wholesome living. After a long day of shows, retreating here felt less like entering a hotel and more like stepping into a Nordic forest with really good, glowy lighting. Shout out to the delicious breakfast buffet, probably the healthiest options I've ever had at a breakfast buffet that actually tasted good. The service is impeccably warm, and the commitment to a zero-waste ethos proves that high-end hospitality can, and should, have a soul.