In a time where founders are often as visible as the products they sell, Chili Palmer has taken an alternative route. Rather than building a label around her own image, the third-generation shoemaker launched Lili Curia, a character, a universe, and, eventually, a footwear brand. Part alter ego, part creative compass, Lili Curia exists somewhere between fantasy and functionality, producing shoes that feel distinctive enough to spark conversation but wearable enough to become part of everyday life.

Since launching, the brand has gathered a devoted following rapidly, with everyone from Keira Knightley to Suki Waterhouse stepping into its world. Yet Palmer remains less interested in defining a singular "Lili Curia woman" than creating space for different interpretations. Rooted in generations of shoemaking expertise but driven by curiosity, character and a healthy appreciation for the unexpected, the label has found a sweet spot between craft and imagination.

As part of our Female Founded series, Because caught up with Palmer to talk about building a brand around an alter ego, balancing creative instinct with commercial reality, and navigating the momentum of a brand that's quickly found its footing.

What inspired you to launch Lili Curia, and what gap were you trying to fill?

I grew up around shoemaking, so footwear always felt quite instinctive to me. But I was interested in approaching it from a more creative perspective, thinking about shoes not just as products but as part of a wider story and world. I wanted to create footwear that felt expressive and characterful, but was still practical enough to become part of someone's wardrobe. Lili Curia became a way of bringing together craft, character and everyday wearability.

You created a founder-led brand without putting yourself at the centre of it. In an era when personal branding is often considered essential, what appealed to you about building a character and a world rather than building a brand around your own identity?

Rather than building an eponymous label, I wanted to build the brand around an alter ego. The character came first, and the world grew from there. What appealed to me was the idea that people contain lots of different sides of themselves. Building the brand around a character allowed space for those different moods and identities to exist. Rather than asking people to buy into my identity, it invites them to step into the world and find their own place within it.

The brand has gained momentum incredibly quickly. What has been the biggest challenge of scaling without losing the intimacy or specificity that people connected with in the first place?

The challenge is protecting the things that made people connect with the brand in the first place. As you grow, there are always opportunities to move faster, do more and be in more places. But we're still a very young brand and I'm conscious of growing carefully. I want every collaboration, collection and partnership to feel intentional. For me, intimacy comes from maintaining a strong point of view. As long as we're making decisions that feel true to the world we're building, I think people can feel that.

You seem to have cultivated a very distinct audience without being overly prescriptive about who the Lili Curia woman is. How do you strike that balance?

I think it's because there isn't one Lili Curia woman. She's more of a spirit than a demographic. The women who connect with the brand often have very different personal styles, careers and lives, but they share a sense of curiosity and individuality. I've never wanted to prescribe exactly who she is. It's more interesting to create a world that people can interpret in their own way.

You come from a family of shoemakers. How do you carry that heritage forward without feeling tied to it?

Quality, materials and construction have always been part of my world. That knowledge is incredibly valuable, but I've never felt tied to a particular aesthetic or way of designing. It gives me a strong foundation, but creatively I feel very free to build something with its own identity.

Do your collections usually begin with a shoe, a story, an object or a character?

Usually a combination. I'm a collector by nature, so it often begins with vintage shoes, photographs, fabrics or found objects that catch my attention. Alongside that, I'm usually imagining a character or mood, and the collection develops somewhere between the two.

Do you have a favourite style you've designed that still feels like the purest expression of the brand?

Probably the Isadora boot. It was one of our earliest styles and still feels like a pure expression of the brand. I love that balance between a statement piece and a staple.

What does sustainable growth look like to you personally, not in theory, but in practice?

Sustainable growth means growing at a pace that feels manageable. Not chasing every opportunity, not overproducing, and making sure the team, collections and distribution evolve in a considered way. I'd rather build something with longevity than grow as quickly as possible.

Can you share some of the key milestones or challenges you’ve faced in running Lili Curia, and how they have shaped your journey as a female founder?

Launching the brand was a huge milestone in itself. Seeing people connect with the world before we'd even launched product gave me confidence to trust the creative vision. Working with artists, seeing musicians wear the shoes, and watching the community grow have all been incredibly rewarding moments. The biggest challenge has probably been learning to balance creative instinct with the realities of building a business. As a founder you're constantly moving between imagination and practicality. Over time I've become more comfortable holding both at once.

Looking ahead, what are your aspirations for Lili Curia, and how do you envision the brand evolving in the rapidly changing landscape?

I want to continue deepening the world. That means expanding thoughtfully into new categories, collaborating with craftspeople and artists, creating more experiences around the brand, and continuing to build a community of people who connect with its spirit. Fashion moves incredibly quickly, but I think people are increasingly drawn to brands with a clear identity and emotional point of view. My hope is that Lili Curia continues to feel distinctive, curious and full of character, regardless of how the landscape changes around it.

Learn more about the brand here