10 Questions with John Richmond

John Richmond was born into the gutsy spirit that defines the English capital. And those roots are unshakeable. Decamping to Milan many moons ago to drive his fashion brand’s business and shows, this AW25 he returns to London’s fashion week schedule, setting his stage in the city that inspires him. Amidst a fashion landscape demanding constant evolution to meet the rapid trend cycle, Richmond maintains a distinctly punkish stoicism in both his aesthetics and his approach to design. Beginning his career immersed in the defining subculture scene of London, Richmond built on his obsession with the gritty underbelly of the city where his brand found its humble beginnings. The raw energy of the 1980s, combined with his meticulous attention to detail, ensures that Richmond’s eponymous label serves as a homage to the jagged edges of culture, expressed through the immaculate craftsmanship of his collections. 

Returning to his roots and celebrating a homecoming in the city where it all started, the brand’s AW25 collection and presentation is a fashion statement, embedding a wider commentary on the cultural and creative landscape today. Born under the political and socio-economic pressures of Thatcher’s 80s, the brand’s reactionary rebelliousness is in its DNA, and a return to London allows it to reaffirm the significance of creativity and expression in the face of algorithmic silencing. With leather, gunmetal studs, and black as the dominant hue in his palette, it’s clear that Richmond’s dedication to his punk roots remains unwavering. 

As he prepares to debut his latest collection at a presentation this London Fashion Week at the Tate Modern Tanks, we spoke with John himself to dissect the methods behind his madness.

Congratulations on your return to London Fashion Week. What is it about London that continues to energise your creativity?

London has a history of sub cultures , music , creativity , and pushing boundaries . It’s engrained in its DNA. It's an Island mentality , we do our own thing.

Describe your AW25 collection in three words

Couture British Sub-Culture

Why do you do what you do? What keeps you motivated to keep creating fashion collections 38 years on?

I love creating , starting the day with a clean sheet of paper

Have you found a technique, or a supplier, or a contributing craftsperson that has excited you to incorporate into your new AW25 collection?

I like to build up relationships with suppliers (people) and am always looking to add to what I consider the ‘team‘ . I'm always open and looking for exciting suppliers and techniques. There are so many new developments with the use of lasers and technology.

What’s one element of your design process that might surprise people?

I work in an organic way, building, adding and taking away. I have a vision but during that process if something starts taking me in a different direction and feels good I’ll go that way. I never stop designing so the biggest problem I have is the collection is growing too big (far too big !!!)

ChatGPT. Yes or no?

We use it sometimes, it’s just another tool, like any tool it’s what you put in that's important.

Over the past few challenging years - with Brexit, post-Covid, with the retail landscape a bit of a mess - how have you thought about what you make and how to make it connect with your customer and community?

Yes, you cannot help being affected by everything that's happening in the world . The Fashion landscape has drastically changed, it's a completely different world than the one I started in. Instagram has highlighted how important your ‘community‘ is, this is nothing new but maybe we just didn't realise how important.

How will you celebrate when the show is over?

Get back to work on the next one, no rest for the wicked. 

What's the one product that is NOT your own, that you can't live without, or has stayed in your wardrobe for constant use, and why?

My phone, everything else is my own. Main use being I can keep up to date with the football.

Your designs have always carried a rebellious spirit, rooted in rock and punk influences. How do you keep that attitude alive in today’s fashion landscape?

With everything going on in the world there is a lot more to rebel against, or rather be very worried about, it feels like we are going backwards in many aspects. My rebellious spirit is in my DNA, yes “I’m still a punk“ it’s just who I am and always will be.