MFW SS25: The Standouts

Etro
Eve Bailey

Marco De Vincenzo’s SS25 Etro collection saw models strut the runway punctuated by Giant agave sculptures supposedly symbolising the transient beauty of creation. Soundtracked by Sardinian musician and singer-songwriter Daniela Pes the psychedelic jacquards, layered prints, and bold flares evoked a journey of continuous transformation, reflecting De Vincenzo’s ongoing dialogue with the Etro code.

Prada
Olivia Barrett

There’s a certain reliability when it comes to Prada shows. A common understanding that it will be a standout collection, a knowledge that trends will be set or solidified, a realisation that your wishlist is going to double in size. And yet, for their SS25 show, while all those trusty preconceptions remain, as the looks stepped out onto the runway, it seems that a throughline, a reliable assumption, and a good guess at what was going to come out next was nowhere to be seen. If we were going for a simple summary of Mrs Prada and Raf’s show, we’d say that there was something for everyone, literally. But we know you want the juicier details so here we go: Prada’s SS25 was a true iliad, a journey through their archive, to 70’s living rooms, space age aesthetics and maybe a short foray into BDSM. Perfectly embodying this Miuccia-mashup was a silver dress, embellished with mirrored disks and thousands of sequins, the futuristic fashion enhanced by the space-agey visor. And yet, paired with the cutesy yellow raincoat, the element of surprise was ever-present. We could go on and on, but this a collection that needs to be seen to be believed. 

Loro Piana
Sylvia Shoshan 

Linen is to summer what ice cream is to Italy - essential. Celebrating their 100-year heritage, Loro Piana pinpoints this essence of summer in their SS25 collection. Known for their mastery of fabrics, Loro Piana continues to let touch and texture guide their creations, blending timeless elegance with the unique comfort of linen. The collection was presented as an immersive installation, leading visitors through rooms dedicated to the versatile fibre, with striking artworks by Adriana Meunié showcasing linen’s transformative potential. It ignites a new appreciation for the summer fabric, synonymous with Mediterranean holidays, only enhancing its innate elegance.

Ferragamo
Olivia Barrett

For Ferragamo’s SS25 collection, creative director and fashion’s golden boy, Maximilian Davis decided to explore the Italian house’s history with ballet. Towing the lie between sport and art form, Davis imbued the collection with balletic softness via cashmere pieces inspired by the functional beauty of practice uniforms. Freedom within movement was explored through airy tailoring, billowing trench coats and intentionally crumpled jackets wafted down the runway. And who could forget the satin pink pointe shoe-inspired heel? While most of our baby ballet lessons didn't result in prima ballerina glory, Ferragamo will keep us looking the part.

MSGM
Eve Bailey

As summer rolls to a close MSGM decided to present us with vacation envy. Instead of a traditional runway, this season they decided to opt for a presentation and lookbook inspired by iconic coastal homes, from Giorgetti's "La Vedetta" to Eileen Gray's modernist "Villa E-1027," the collection presents the perfect advertisement for summer living. 

Arthur Arbesser
Olivia Barrett 

To say that Arthur Arbesser’s SS25 presentation was a hands-on project would be an understatement. Of course, like many fashion week debuts, many hands make much beauty, but for Austrian designer Arbesser, hands became a central point of inspiration for his collection. Pointing, peace signs, flower picking and more, hand gestures as motifs were splashed across baggy shirting, tunics, and collared dresses. A candy-coloured palette was offset by striking black accents and added a truly Comedia dell’arté visual effect. Oversized silhouettes, sugary sweet hues, and charming hand patterns, Arbesser was a whimsical departure from the grey autumn weather.

Gucci
Sylvia Shoshan

Still relatively fresh at the House, all eyes were on creative director Sabato de Sarno and his latest collection; ‘Casual Grandeur’. Focussing on his obsessions with tailoring, lingerie, leather, and 60s silhouettes the looks balanced opulence and ease. Floor sweeping trench coats paired with low-slung baggy jeans perfectly contrasted with barely-there lingerie and lace looks. And fear not, the now iconic Gucci Ancora red made appearances in trenches, leather and lace. De Sarno has us convinced and looking to embrace this casual grandeur.

Durazzi Milano
Olivia Barrett

Amongst the packed schedules of fashion month, a gripping set is certainly one way to secure the attention of your guests. For Durazzi’s SS25 show ‘Sound Sculptures’ models moved around huge melting ice figures, with the liquid pooling slowly across the floor. Inspired by the process of water regeneration and the freeing of form, creative director Ilenia Durazzi followed suit, freeing up sartorial forms and releasing them within her own vision. Armed with a satisfyingly neutral palette, Durazzi transformed conventional accents and features with a clear vinyl material, including collars, belts, hems, and even chaps over jeans. Trench coats, ponchos and basket bags were suddenly given a cool-girl lift and it’s safe to say the entire collection had us melting.

Sunnei
Olivia Barrett

Let’s face it, for such a tenuous concept, youth is totally revered in the fashion industry. While we’re not saying age is just a number (Leo we’re looking at you) but Sunnei’s SS25 shook the pedestal that we place youth on. As one of Milan’s most playful brands turns 10 this year, Sunnei asked themselves what it means to grow up literally and conceptually. For the show, casting was key. The fleet of models - all over 50, weren't resigned to the dullness that is often thrown at more mature audiences. Graphic printed, form-fitting mesh was deployed for layering long sleeve tops, gloves and sleeveless dresses. The colour palette while heavily neutral was uplifted by bursts of technicolour, with vermillion red and royal purple. Statement glasses and sporty platform sandals were standout additions to the styling and bags meticulously made of paper required double-takes from the audience. Sunnei may not be the new kid on the block anymore, but they certainly show that even while growing up, they still know how to have fun.