The Standouts, Part 1

Paolo Carzana
Eve Bailey

The most anticipated show this season was presented in an intimate gathering set in the designer's very own garden in Hackney, where the audience drank natural wines and bathed in a perfectly-timed orange sunset. Here was a designer whose poetic licence is so pure that his work this evening brought many of the audience to tears. Models cascaded their way down the metal staircase from Carzana’s kitchen adorned in the designer's organic textiles, from eucalyptus fibre to antique Welsh quilts, all of which underscored a deep connection to nature. The collection drew inspiration from Caravaggio’s Narcissus and questioned humanity’s obsession with self-image, something us fashion lot are all too aware of. It was a deeply personal, mesmerising presentation that transcended fashion to speak to the world’s deeper wounds.

Tolu Coker
Sylvia Shoshan

Tolu Coker set the tone by transporting us into an intimate family home with soft-furnished seating and 60s-inspired wallpaper projections. Named after her mother, her SS25 collection “Olapeju” celebrates the rich heritage and craftsmanship of British-Nigerian identities and their unsung matriarchs. Drawing inspiration from her mother’s journey from Lagos to London and her late father’s photography of immigrant life in the late 60s, the designs echo the chic tailoring of the time with cinched waists, bold graphic prints, and A-line miniskirts. Sustainability was a key aspect, with upcycled leathers and reclaimed printed satins further reaffirming the heirloom nature of this collection. Amidst the strong personal references and care taken with her creative process, Coker’s delivery was teeming with joyous moments that cut right through the often austere vibe of fashion month. For the finale, models danced their way down the catwalk led by supermodel Jourdan Dunn and none other than Tolu’s own mother, who of course, stole an embrace with her daughter; placing family right at the heart of this London fashion week.

Labrum London
Olivia Barrett 

While football may not be our forte, the show certainly scored a homerun for the Because team (are we getting the hang of it yet?). Hosted at the Emirates Stadium, Labrum creative director and lifelong Arsenal fan Foday Dumbuya brought together his two worlds. British rapper Ghetts introduced the show with a spoken word piece that united both fashion and football with an important but often forgotten message about immigration’s tendency to enrich the cultural life of a nation, whether on the runway or on the pitch. The collection itself was attentive to both tailoring and athleticism, with the classic Adidas Superstar elevated onto a punchy platform. Billowing kaftans and chic summer suiting have certainly earned their way into our away kits. Capping it all off was England player Declan Rice, who traded shinguards for a shirt and navy suit woven in wide ribbon to mirror the iconic Adidas triple stripe. 

Erdem
Caroline Issa 

Twice as large, but just as confident, Erdem has hit its stride with its slightly kinky feminine-masculine balance. This SS25 it was straight-laced suiting in contrast to floaty flapper-style dresses (all paired with brogues, mind you). But the embellishments, the beading, the dashes of eccentricity for a modern age… well, it all added up to a perfect collection with absolutely no missteps. A delight to witness.

Simone Rocha
Sylvia Shoshan

Returning to The Old Bailey for a second time, Irish-born designer Simone Rocha infused her collection with a flirtatious energy, showcasing her signature sheer fabrics and tulle tutu designs. Embracing romance, the collection featured carnations throughout, including as an actual bouquet inspired by painter Genieve Figgis. They also peeked out embellished on briefs, blurring the lines between underwear and outerwear. Performative, teasing, and pleasing… Rocha continues to showcase her unique blend of femininity and edge.