Female Founded: Gabar

When Phway Su Aye and Susan Wai Hnin left the finance industry to launch their own beauty company, there were intent on bringing parts of their Myanmar heritage to the fragrance sector. The word “gabar” translates to “world” in Burmese, a fitting descriptor for a brand that is international in outlook yet deeply rooted in the traditions of Myanmar. Because spoke to Phway on their company philosophy and the launch of three new perfumes named after mystical beings: Nagar Min, Balu & Galone.

What inspired you to start Gabar? What gap in the market did you set out to fill? And have you been able to stay true to your aspirations?

Gabar was started to build a new kind of scent and beauty brand – one that would discuss concepts of internal growth and development as much as those of external beauty. We saw a glaring gap in the market for an inclusive scent brand– one that was actively breaking down the barriers of traditional perfumery, as well as touching on new, creative undercurrents and curiosities. Having spent the last few years focused on growing us as an independent brand with a distinct voice and ethos, we’ve been excited about staying true to these aspirations and continuing to chart our path for our community. 

How does the fragrance sector continue to energize your creativity?

We love seeing what’s happening with our peers and in the fragrance sector, but we try our best to stay true to ourselves. There’s been a surge of interest in niche perfumery, spurred by the isolation of COVID and a newfound desire for extra-sensorial experiences. Scent can bridge gaps in memory and time, offering connections we all need. We admire independent perfume brands offering distinct stories, cultures, and voices. Walking around different cities as a “customer” and soaking in the offerings at niche boutiques is still a huge pastime of mine – I love seeing what other creators are making. Beyond this, it pays to have a strong pulse for what’s happening politically and culturally. The topics, trends, and aesthetics people are gravitating towards can be huge creative energizers. With perfumery, we are bottling culture or certain moments – past, present, or future – so it's important to be open-minded about where influences come from.

How has the fragrance industry changed in the time you’ve been active in it?

It’s grown over the years, and people have turned to places like #PerfumeTok to dig in and learn more. We love it! It’s been incredible meeting so many passionate scent-lovers from around the world. We love the representation of new voices, especially from regions with strong perfumery cultures that were less seen in traditional spheres – South East Asia, where our roots are, for example. Distinct voices representing new regions expand scent palettes and introduce people to a broader array of cultures. Growing up in the West, I remember being self-conscious about the way certain cooking smelled in our household. It’s been liberating to see the tables turn and have South East Asian flavours being cherished in fine perfumery. This acceptance of new voices signals a curiosity and appreciation of new cultures. To be open to a different scent culture is another level of engagement!

How has your South East Asian heritage influenced the brand?

Hugely! My co-founder and I were born in Myanmar, and our South East Asian origins heavily influence our collections. The warmth and community of that culture are embedded in the brand. However, we weave our roots with our team’s lived experiences to bring a dynamic multiculturalism to our brand, rather than viewing ourselves as just South East Asian. Our team members span London, New York, Paris, Shanghai, and Yangon, all sharing the experience of having migrated and brought together different sides of themselves.

Tell us about the new DEITIES range. What was it like working with Ezra Lloyd-Jackson? What inspired the collection's visual direction?

We are proud to be releasing our Deities Collection, a project years in the making. I met Ezra a long while ago, and we hit it off immediately. It was our shared perspective on the industry and the changes we wanted to see that brought everything together. After passionate conversations, I called on Ezra when plans changed with our Deities project and the direction aligned with his scent style. It was a seamless experience. With Ezra, it took less than a year to bring the fragrances alive. The process was intimate, collaborative, and fun. We were on the same page about directional changes, and it was a thrilling moment of knowing when the fragrances were “complete”. The collection is our first gourmand collection: a three-part capsule capturing the spirits of three mythical deities in South East Asian lore: Nagar Min, Balu & Galone. I had been obsessed with this part of Myanmar and Buddhist history, piecing together these under-told myths. We all know Zeus, but it’s rare for anyone outside our home countries to have heard of these beings. As a brand, we had been thinking about concepts of good and bad, and these creatures seemed to capture the spirit, humanity, and “animal” in all of us. We aren’t taught enough how to grapple with sides of us like anger or jealousy, and suppression only gets us worse outcomes. The collection is intense. The initial punches of notes like Sichuan, Dates, or Sesame & Volcanic Caramel get channeled into something well-balanced and beautiful. We hope people enjoy them on their own terms – loving the gourmands for what they are or resonating with the stories behind them.

For women interested in starting their own brand, what advice would you give based on your experiences?

My biggest advice is to take that first step and start embodying the traits of the person you hope to be. It’s scary to jump ship completely, but taking baby steps is so important. Surround yourself with the energy of the life you want, and the right opportunities and people will follow. My other advice is to listen to your gut. It’s hard to do this with the noise of the world around you, so find ways to tune in that work for you: go on long walks, sit in nature, or journal – anything that can bring you fresh ideas.

What’s next for Gabar? Are there any exciting launches our readers can look forward to?

The launch of this new Deities collection is on the front of our minds. We’re excited to bring this out and introduce the scents and layers of the story. After this, we’ll be pausing on new scents for some time to give love and space to what we already have, focusing instead on community events and growing our “bubbles.” We started in the UK, began dabbling in the US last year, and hope to continue this as well as touch down in key cities in Europe and Asia. During this time, instead of new scents, we hope to bring out new formats of our bestsellers and new ways to engage with our brand. We’re excited about what the next years will bring and hope for something fulfilling and steady!

Check out the full range of Gabar fragrances here.